The restaurant’s virtues are showcased in two of its best, most diametrically opposed dishes. A vegetarian plate doesn’t even mess around with grains. It is straight-up vegetables: buttery, velvety roast acorn squash spilling over with kale, Brussels sprouts, and carrots. Talk about highlighting the bounty of the season. It is far more satisfying than it has any right to be, each ingredient cooked to its ideal point, lent just a bit of extra flavor from a sherry reduction. Then there is Farmstead Table’s burger — grass-fed beef grilled medium-rare, caramelized onions, cheddar, and thick, smoky bacon on a brioche roll. It’s a great burger, in the same way a traditional tux is a great suit without the cummerbund. The perfect fries — hand-cut, slender, crisp, with bits of skin — are the finishing touch here.
Dessert is worthy of the rest of the meal, from a s’mores-inspired chocolate tart topped with bruleed marshmallow to a fluffy pecan-toffee bread pudding with creme Anglaise poured over it to a rustic beauty of an apple tart.
It all adds up to a lovely restaurant, the nice neighborhood place that locals will have to learn to share. The only misstep the Burnses may have made was in not opening a bigger space.