Restaurant review: In Boston’s Fort Point, roasts and revelry at the uneven Tavern Road

Above: roasted half guinea hen.
Above: roasted half guinea hen.Photos by Essdras M Suarez/Globe staff

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In February, brothers Louis and Michael DiBiccari opened Tavern Road in Fort Point, a current epicenter of culinary excitement. The restaurant is animated by a spirit of fun. Its energy can lead to good food, from a salad of burrata with carrots and peas to a perfectly roasted guinea hen.

But the elements that promise to make a dish interesting — rhubarb and Thai chilies with veal breast, ramp kimchi with a whole sea bream — are often too sparse. Meat is what the kitchen does best, as the estimable charcuterie platters remind us. The restaurant is named for the street where the brothers’ uncle, a famous sculptor, had his studio. As he knew, it can take time to turn raw materials into a finished product.

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