When the current breed of food trucks rolled into town, it was a novelty. Rather than junk food, they were selling creative dishes made from high-quality ingredients. It was exciting simply to be able to purchase a real meal from a truck. Now these vehicles are everywhere, and there is room for discernment. It’s not enough, anymore, to serve gourmet sandwiches or rice bowls — they have to be good enough to keep up with other local offerings. And as more food-truck concepts lead to brick-and-mortar establishments, and more brick-and-mortars spawn food trucks, the line between the two blurs. They are all restaurants. Some of them just happen to move. Given that, it’s time to take a critical look at a few of these mobile eateries. Full story for BostonGlobe.com subscribers.