There was a time when it was rare to spot a creature like Zebra’s Bistro and Wine Bar beyond city limits. Zebra’s opened in Medfield in 1999, when suburban restaurant meals often came packaged in cardboard containers. That’s not the case anymore.
For a restaurant critic, one of this year’s refrains is “Fine dining takes over the suburbs.” City rents are sky high, and the market in surrounding towns is finally being recognized. How nice to go out for dinner without a long drive for dessert. But if Zebra’s is no longer an exception, it is still notable. Executive chef Brendan Pelley took the helm last year, after working at restaurants including Clio, Summer Winter, the Franklin Cape Ann, and the Stonehedge Inn & Spa. Full story for BostonGlobe.com subscribers.