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Maybe once a year, if I’m lucky, I get to eat somewhere that blows my mind. I just got my taste for 2013. Which is why I’m going to tell you to get in a car and drive to Providence to eat at a tiny restaurant that doesn’t take reservations. It will be worth it.
North opened last September, a project from three cooks under 30 — they refuse to call themselves “chefs” — James Mark, Tim Shulga, and John Toon Chester. The restaurant is dark and decorated with paintings of nude pearl divers and junks. Walls and ceilings are slung with thick, knotted ropes. It feels like eating in a Japanese izakaya aboard a small boat bobbing in a Venetian canal.