On a scorching mid-week lunch hour, the dining room at Szechuan’s Dumpling in Arlington Heights is three-quarters full. Among the tables are two couples, a few high schoolers already looking bored with summer vacation, and lots of families, about half of which are Chinese-American. Rambunctious little ones nibble on scallion pancakes and juicy pork dumplings. Their parents slurp thick noodles from a shared steaming hot pot. Service is attentive, restrooms clean, parking a breeze. An accessible, suburban spot like this one, serving consistent food, in a setting even your squeamish, crab-Rangoon loving teenager will abide? That’s a welcome addition to any neighborhood.
What brought us here in the first place are the dumplings: mini soup dumplings, pork soup dumplings, and pan-fried Shandong crescents. Full story for BostonGlobe.com subscribers.
Catherine Smart can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.