When Sam’s opened three years ago, inside waterfront fashion emporium Louis Boston, it was a one-star restaurant with a four-star view. Since then, management has installed a new chef, Asia Mei, whose resume includes experience at Hamersley’s Bistro, Franklin Southie, and Whole Foods. Shake the three together in equal parts and you’ve got the recipe for Sam’s.
Mei’s menu is full of classic dishes with clever twists, prepared relatively healthfully, with an emphasis on produce from places such as Blue Heron Organic Farm in Lincoln and Eva’s Garden in Dartmouth. The food is clean, tasty, and satisfying. It is a pleasure to say Sam’s is now a very nice place to eat, with food that complements its idyllic location. Full story for BostonGlobe.com subscribers.