Society on High is a better place to drink than to eat

ASalmon with spring pea risotto.
ASalmon with spring pea risotto.Credit: Photos by Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff

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SOCIETY ON HIGH

It is late summer, as hot and humid at 8 p.m. as it was in the middle of the day. A measure of the weather: Society on High’s alluring outdoor dining area is deserted. Even Bostonians, who drink patio season to the lees, are sticking with AC. We take a seat inside, and a server appears. “Our special tonight is foie gras-stuffed pheasant with a tawny Port reduction,” she says. Spit take.

On a night like this, heavy excess is the last thing anyone would crave. It’s as if the people in the kitchen tried their hardest to come up with something no one would order. That tone deafness is a sign of things to come. The menu shows ambition, but it’s not being realized.

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