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The Kirkland Tap & Trotter in Somerville is the second restaurant from chef Tony Maws of Craigie on Main. The James Beard award winner made his name with refined, French-inspired nose-to-tail cookery. He’s also won a following for his bar-menu burger. What happens when he merges the two modes and opens a more-relaxed neighborhood spot? Come here to find out. The restaurant has an urban-rustic aesthetic, with original brick and exposed beams, mismatched chairs, and assorted vintage-y signage: Big letters on one wall read “KT&T.” There is a busy open kitchen and a wood-fired grill. At the crowded bar, men in plaid flannel and aprons make old-fashioneds for guest after guest. “Bourbon or rye?” they ask. The latter, always. It’s a rye crowd.
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