Seta’s Cafe in Belmont has only 20 seats. Seta (pronounced Sehtah) Dakessian is cooking Mediterranean and Armenian food with a heightened sense of sophistication and the best possible ingredients: antibiotic-free chickens, meats raised in Lunenberg, farmers’ market produce.
Raised in the restaurant business, Dakessian is professionally trained, and spent the last few years at farmers’ markets selling Seta’s Mediterranean Foods and getting to know the growers around her. She really understands good ingredients simply prepared. All those pieces add up to a splendid menu. Dakessian is making slow food, so don’t appear, place your order, take a seat, and tap your foot impatiently. You wait on yourself and bus your own table. This food is sent out of the kitchen with such care and thoughtfulness that you’ll wonder how she does it. Full story for BostonGlobe.com subscribers.
Sheryl Julian can be reached at email@example.com.