In Somerville, the Kirkland Tap & Trotter is the new, more-casual restaurant from chef Tony Maws. At Craigie on Main, his Cambridge spot, we get dishes like pig’s head revisited: It’s confit! And it’s served with pancakes, a la Peking duck! And there’s sambal, but it’s made with pumpkin, and the hoisin involves boudin noir. It’s exciting; it’s head-rearranging, and not just for the pig.
At the Kirkland Tap & Trotter, we get dishes like a giant pork chop: It’s a pork chop! It’s unadorned but for some charred broccoli rabe pinned beneath it like Wile E Coyote under an anvil. It is also unbelievably good, juicy, with serious heft, infused with smoke from the grill. It’s camping food in someone’s fantasy about camping. Full story for BostonGlobe.com subscribers.