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Kirkland Tap & Trotter showcases the craft of cooking

At Tony Maws’s new place in Somerville, (from top) pumpkin stew with couscous, grilled squash, and yogurt; prosciutto salad; and sirloin tip brochette with grilled avocado.
At Tony Maws’s new place in Somerville, (from top) pumpkin stew with couscous, grilled squash, and yogurt; prosciutto salad; and sirloin tip brochette with grilled avocado.photos by wendy maeda/globe staff

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THE KIRKLAND TAP & TROTTER

In Somerville, the Kirkland Tap & Trotter is the new, more-casual restaurant from chef Tony Maws. At Craigie on Main, his Cambridge spot, we get dishes like pig’s head revisited: It’s confit! And it’s served with pancakes, a la Peking duck! And there’s sambal, but it’s made with pumpkin, and the hoisin involves boudin noir. It’s exciting; it’s head-rearranging, and not just for the pig.

At the Kirkland Tap & Trotter, we get dishes like a giant pork chop: It’s a pork chop! It’s unadorned but for some charred broccoli rabe pinned beneath it like Wile E Coyote under an anvil. It is also unbelievably good, juicy, with serious heft, infused with smoke from the grill. It’s camping food in someone’s fantasy about camping.

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