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Fairsted Kitchen’s specialty is TLC

Clockwise from above: Fairsted Kitchen entrees include braised oxtail in a rosemary-red wine reduction with turnips, carrots, and arancini; lamb ribs dusted in cumin and deeply charred; and herb-flecked spatzle with Gruyere and rabbit confit.
Clockwise from above: Fairsted Kitchen entrees include braised oxtail in a rosemary-red wine reduction with turnips, carrots, and arancini; lamb ribs dusted in cumin and deeply charred; and herb-flecked spatzle with Gruyere and rabbit confit.KAYANA SZYMCZAK FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

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FAIRSTED KITCHEN

Some restaurants open with a bang: celebrity chef! PR blitz! Line of food-blog followers out the door opening night! Others go about quietly being awesome and let people figure it out for themselves.

People have figured out Fairsted Kitchen, and gone are the Friday evenings one could walk in and find elbow room at this little spot in Brookline’s Washington Square. This is a wonderful thing, because it is a wonderful restaurant. Co-owners Steve Bowman (Menton, Russell House Tavern) and Andrew Foster (Il Casale, Deuxave, Russell House) take everything they know about fine dining and service and use their powers for good: to create a truly warm experience. The menu emphasizes family-style dining, with platters for the table to share.

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