Back Bay Harry’s is good — some of the time

Top: Buttermilk fried chicken, served with potato puree, spinach, barbecue syrup, and plump doughnut holes. Above: the house salad board with greens, tomatoes, green beans, goat cheese, and bacon.
Top: Buttermilk fried chicken, served with potato puree, spinach, barbecue syrup, and plump doughnut holes. Above: the house salad board with greens, tomatoes, green beans, goat cheese, and bacon. Credit: PHOTOS BY MATTHEW J. LEE/GLOBE STAFF

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BACK BAY HARRY’S

Santos is in the house,” a friend says as I slide in beside her into a plush curved booth at Back Bay Harry’s, a new restaurant where the seating treats anyone like a VIP. The booths are covered in sea-foam green, and they are extremely lounge-worthy. The restaurant — formerly Geoffrey’s, before that, Laurel — looks luminous in this iteration, with brass chandeliers, mirrors, and chevron-patterned tiled columns. “Santos” would be chef Jason Santos, and you want him in the house. The menu has enough safe bets to go around — a solid burger, an appealing salad board. And then there are big, bold international flavors and touches of whimsy. It is an individualist’s cuisine, most successful in the hands of the individual who envisions it.

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