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Bondir Concord is the second installment of the Cambridge restaurant with which it shares a name. Chef-owner Jason Bond opened the first three years ago, and it was close to perfect. Things are very much the same at the new Bondir, the best thing to happen to Concord-area dining in some time (to be precise, since 80 Thoreau opened in 2011).
The local, ever-changing dishes are often delicious, the staff welcoming, the decor a mix of antique and modern, this time with a whiff of olde New England. The warren-like space is outfitted with wood tables, benches with firewood stowed beneath, antique card catalogs and quilts, and an enormous, impressive jewel-toned painting of fowl. Yet somehow it doesn’t feel quite as magical.