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Concord’s branch of Bondir is an admirable sequel, if not an equal

Above: potato souffle with Perigord truffles. Left: roast duck breast and confit leg, with beans, braised carrots, and black walnut bran muffin.
Above: potato souffle with Perigord truffles. Left: roast duck breast and confit leg, with beans, braised carrots, and black walnut bran muffin.Photos by Wendy Maeda/Globe Staff

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BONDIR CONCORD

Bondir Concord is the second installment of the Cambridge restaurant with which it shares a name. Chef-owner Jason Bond opened the first three years ago, and it was close to perfect. Things are very much the same at the new Bondir, the best thing to happen to Concord-area dining in some time (to be precise, since 80 Thoreau opened in 2011).

The local, ever-changing dishes are often delicious, the staff welcoming, the decor a mix of antique and modern, this time with a whiff of olde New England. The warren-like space is outfitted with wood tables, benches with firewood stowed beneath, antique card catalogs and quilts, and an enormous, impressive jewel-toned painting of fowl. Yet somehow it doesn’t feel quite as magical.

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