Oysters, beer, good cheer: Row 34 is hard to beat

Row 34’s menu includes (clockwise from above) crab toast with smoked paprika and celery salad, warm buttered lobster roll (also available cold and creamy), and house-made bucatini with clams and garlic crumbs.
Row 34’s menu includes (clockwise from above) crab toast with smoked paprika and celery salad, warm buttered lobster roll (also available cold and creamy), and house-made bucatini with clams and garlic crumbs.Credit: Photos by Lane Tuner/Globe Staff

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ROW 34

It used to be one of Boston’s most puzzling restaurant riddles. What is everywhere and nowhere at once? Answer: All the great seafood restaurants. There was Legal, Summer Shack, Neptune, B&G, and . . . not much else. Yet the sparkling bounty of New England waters appeared on every fine local menu. To eat good seafood, one just had to go to a good restaurant. Everyone served it. Few specialized. That last part has changed. If anyone is responsible for stoking and demonstrating the city’s hunger in this regard, it is the people at Island Creek Oysters. They seeded Boston with namesake bivalves, then begat Island Creek Oyster Bar in Kenmore Square. Now the team has opened Row 34, a new oyster bar in Fort Point.

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