Devra First is the Globe's restaurant critic and food reporter.
In February, brothers Louis and Michael DiBiccari opened Tavern Road in Fort Point, a current epicenter of culinary excitement. The restaurant is animated by a spirit of fun. Its energy can lead to good food, from a salad of burrata with carrots and peas to a perfectly roasted guinea hen. But the elements that promise to make a dish interesting -- rhubarb and Thai chilies with veal breast, ramp kimchi with a whole sea bream -- are often too sparse. Meat is what the kitchen does best, as the estimable charcuterie platters remind us. The restaurant is named for the street where the brothers' uncle, a famous sculptor, had his studio. As he knew, it can take time to turn raw materials into a finished product. ( 05/21/2013 6:00 PM )