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Restaurant critic
Devra FirstDevra First is the Globe's restaurant critic and food reporter.
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Post 390 is busy trying to keep up with the crowds
Post 390 feels like it’s been here a long time. It’s two levels of wood, fireplaces, open kitchens, and warm lighting, with several bars and an army of employees, and so crowded it’s hard to take any of that in.Deep-fried turkey is delicious, but it has its trade-offs
Do an online search for the words “deep-fried turkey’’ and it will not be long until you stumble across a video of someone creating a giant flame ball that burns down his or her house and possibly half the town. That, friends, is why I recently decided to attempt this feat. Danger makes me hungry. And so does turkey. Enough ...
Restaurant critic’s dishes to be thankful for this year
It’s Thanksgiving, time to reflect on the things for which we are grateful: family and friends, good fortune, and - of course - good food. Here are some of the dishes I was most thankful for in 2009. (All things must pass, even the delicious: Call before you head out if your heart is set on a certain selection.)
North 26 has the right ingredients, but needs better execution
North 26, opened in the Millennium Bostonian Hotel this past fall, has a seasoned chef of the New England school: Brian Flagg, who cooked with Jasper White at Jasper’s and Summer Shack and Todd English at Olives, and was executive chef at Harvard Square’s Harvest in the mid-’90s. His John Hancock is all over the menu, which features stiff-upper-lip New ...Bubor Cha Cha is a mild success with a Malaysian influence
Bubor cha cha is a Malaysian dessert made from coconut milk, tapioca, and sweet potatoes. You might thus expect Chinatown’s new Bubor Cha Cha to be a Malaysian restaurant. Given both the breadth of that cuisine and the dearth of it in Boston, you might feel a certain amount of excitement at the prospect. Bubor Cha Cha is not the ...Adding flavor to Milton with a pair of new restaurants
The revolution will not be televised, but it may take place by the light of multiple flat-screens.
Kids’ menus should grow up to be as interesting as their parents’
Oliver Bentley is 8 years old. His sister, Anna, is 6. At Zenna Noodle Bar in Brookline, the two are waiting for their Asian noodle soups to arrive. In the meantime, they’re eating fresh rolls with peanut sauce and clams. “They’re interested in food,’’ says their father, Chris. They like sushi, Mexican, and Italian. Anna loves lox, and she’ll often ...
Lively, charming Bon Savor splits time between France, South America
Hail, Boston, our city of neighborhoods. From the east, the aroma of tortillas on the griddle, char-bottomed pizza pies, and airplane fumes mingled with paper-cup coffee. By the water, lobster wholesalers, urban fish shacks, and metal shipping containers in Cezanne hues, dispersing into North End brick, garlic sizzling in olive oil, and sauces cooked for hours. Live shrimp and pea ...No. 9 Park is still tops
Do too many restaurants spoil the cook? That’s always the question when a chef builds on success by opening a second restaurant, then a third, and a fourth. Before you know it, the offspring have spread across the country like an infection, eventually lodging, fatally, in Vegas. As for the chef, she’s more likely to be on television than behind ...Loss of Gourmet says much about today’s lifestyle
Like many of the people who have opined about the demise of Gourmet, I grew up surrounded by the magazine: I ate up what was on its pages, literally. The shelves that hold years of issues in my parents’ kitchen fed me through childhood, as my mother made risotto before Arborio rice could be found in supermarkets, as my father ...
Coriander Bistro in Sharon retains name but adds new array of flavors
For a long time, the best place to eat in Sharon was Coriander Bistro, an upscale French restaurant that closed earlier this year. In July, a new restaurant opened in the space, and surprise! It’s called Coriander Bistro. The name suits this incarnation even better than it did the original: The restaurant now serves Indian and Nepali food. (It’s owned ...Stork Club mixes music, meals to varying success
It was a sad day when Bob’s Southern Bistro shut down two years ago: the end of a long run, the end of “glorifried’’ chicken, the end of listening to live jazz while eating soul food. Bob’s (perhaps better known by a former name, Bob the Chef’s) meant something. In the South End, on the Roxbury side of Mass. Ave., ...