AS FRESH AS IT GETS

Once you find tiny, no-frills Off the Boat Seafood (hint: It's in East Boston), you just might find yourself regularly speeding through the tunnel to feed your addiction. Lobster rolls and other standards are done well, with fresh fish at fair prices, but it's in the Italian dishes that the place really excels. Try the fusilli marchi, loaded with lobster, shrimp, and crab, and the zuppa Vincenzo, a bounty of clams, calamari, shrimp, scallops, and fish. Off the Boat Seafood, 26 Porter Street, East Boston, 617-561-8800, offtheboatseafood.com