Sportello

The name is Italian for counter service, and that's what you'll find. It looks like a gleaming-white mod diner, and it tastes like modern Italy -- a simple chicken soup gets a twist with cumin-scented gnocchi, and magnificently chewy-tender pasta twists come with a ragout of rabbit and green olives.

348 Congress Street, Boston, 617-737-1234, sportelloboston.com