North 26, opened in the Millennium Bostonian Hotel, has a seasoned chef of the New England school: Brian Flagg, who cooked with Jasper White at Jasper’s and Summer Shack and Todd English at Olives, and was executive chef at Harvard Square’s Harvest in the mid-’90s. His John Hancock is all over the menu, which features stiff-upper-lip New World ingredients such as squash, haddock, and venison, paired with Newer World items like coconut milk, preserved lemons, and chourico. Picture a Pilgrim with tattoos. Unfortunately, Flagg’s presence doesn’t emanate as strongly from the kitchen.
Read the full Globe review (Devra First, Globe Staff)
Pictured, corn dogs and lobster deviled egg appetizers at North 26.
Millennium Bostonian Hotel, 26 North St., Boston. 617-557-3640. www.hotels.com/millenniumboston. All major credit cards accepted. Wheelchair accessible.
