July 18, 2008 Email to a friend    Permalink

A Royal Farewell in Bali

Last Tuesday, on the island of Bali, the head of the royal family of Ubud named Agung Suyasa was laid to rest in a rare, spectacular Royal Funeral - the largest in decades. Suyasa, two other members the royal family, and 68 commoners were cremated in a large Hindu ceremony - their bodies having been previously preserved, awaiting cremation, which is traditionally believed to free their souls for future reincarnation. (13 photos total)

Balinese men prepare a giant bull sarcophagus in which a deceased member of the Ubud royal family will be cremated before the cremation ceremony Tuesday July 15, 2008 in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. Balinese royalty and dozens of other prominent Balinese from Ubud were cremated Tuesday in a rare and elaborate ceremony for deceased royals. (AP Photo/Ed Wray)

Balinese men prepare to lift a giant bull in which a deceased member of the Ubud royal family will be cremated during the funeral procession Tuesday July 15, 2008, in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. (AP Photo/Ed Wray)

Thousands of people join the procession prior to the Balinese royals cremation ceremony in Ubud, Bali on July 15, 2008. The remains of two Balinese royals were cremated before some 250,000 loyal subjects after being carried through this hillside town in huge spinning pyres representing the universe. (BAY ISMOYO/AFP/Getty Images)

Balinese dancers perform during a procession of Pelebon or The Royal Cremation Ceremony in Ubud, on the Indonesian island of Bali, July 13, 2008. The bodies head of Ubud Royal family Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa, his nephew Tjokorda Raka, his aunt Desak Raka, and 68 Ubud villagers will be cremated on July 15. The cremation ceremony is a ritual, believed by locals, to send the dead to their next lives. (REUTERS/Beawiharta)

People carry the black bull sarcophagus and a tower prior to the Balinese royals cremation ceremony in Ubud, Bali ilsand on July 15, 2008. (BAY ISMOYO/AFP/Getty Images)

Men play "sulings", traditional music instruments, during the procession of Pelebon or The Royal Cremation Ceremony in Ubud, on the Indonesian island of Bali, July 14, 2008. (REUTERS/Beawiharta)

People welcome and watch the black bull sarcophagus en route to the Balinese royals cremation ceremony in Ubud, Bali on July 15, 2008. (BAY ISMOYO/AFP/Getty Images)

People carry a bull sarcophagus during a procession of Pelebon or The Royal Cremation Ceremony in Ubud, on the Indonesian island of Bali, July 13, 2008. (REUTERS/Beawiharta)

Balinese men walk away after setting alight a giant bull in which a deceased member of the Ubud royal family is cremated in during the funeral ceremony Tuesday July 15, 2008, in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. Balinese royalty and dozens of other prominent Balinese from Ubud were cremated Tuesday in a rare and elaborate ceremony for deceased royals.(AP Photo/Ed Wray)

A bull sarcophagus in which a member of the Ubud royal family was cremated burns during the funeral ceremony Tuesday July 15, 2008 in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. (AP Photo/Ed Wray)

Black bull sarcophagi are set alight during the cremation of two Balinese royals in Ubud, Bali island on July 15, 2008. (BAY ISMOYO/AFP/Getty Images)

A black bull sarcophagus is set alight during the cremation of two Balinese royals in Ubud on Bali island on July 15, 2008. (BAY ISMOYO/AFP/Getty Images)

A Balinese man attends a cremation fire as the last bit of a mythical dragon known as a Naga is burning during a ceremony for a deceased member of the Ubud royal family on Tuesday July 15, 2008 in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. (AP Photo/Ed Wray)

More links and information:
At Royal Balinese Funeral, Bodies Burn and Souls Fly - NYTimes 7/15
Audio Slideshow - NYTimes 7/15
Bali, Indonesia - Google Map

    56 comments so far...
  1. cool!

    Posted by Iliya July 18, 08 11:15 AM
  2. I like how it looks like smoke is coming of the burning bull's mouth

    Posted by Paul July 18, 08 11:16 AM
  3. Also in 2008, this is the real power of tradition! Good photos, as usual!

    http://tinyurl.com/5hs3zb

    Posted by David LT photos July 18, 08 11:21 AM
  4. Picture# 12 looks straight out of hell.

    Posted by me me me July 18, 08 11:27 AM
  5. This is the best new blog in years. Keep up the good work, Boston Globe. Every picture posted thus far has been visually spectacular and informative. How interesting that in an age of talking heads, some of the most informative and insightful media are . . . totally silent. Great, fantastic stuff.

    Posted by KJW July 18, 08 11:43 AM
  6. Wow. The nighttime pictures are ridiculously amazing.
    http://ericstoller.com/blog/

    Posted by Eric Stoller July 18, 08 12:01 PM
  7. Wow - only a couple of days ago I uploaded the photos I took of a cremation in Bali in 1999 -- with the same kind of bull and everything! And it was also in Ubud!

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatcaterpillar/sets/72157606160758320/

    Posted by Stewart Johnson July 18, 08 12:59 PM
  8. Stunning pictures, blog is fantastic. wyonair

    Posted by wyonair July 18, 08 01:31 PM
  9. Whats with posting links to your own blogs? Are we supposed to check it out because it's relevant to these photos? I love the last one, I wish we could have seen the Naga dragon in full before it was burned.

    Posted by Devin July 18, 08 02:29 PM
  10. Also want to commend this new blog. Amazing shots, one and all.

    Posted by Ranjit July 18, 08 03:54 PM
  11. Absolutely amazing photos ~~ so beautiful they gave me goosebumps.

    Posted by Lisa Ruokis July 18, 08 04:36 PM
  12. Great photos. I was actually in Ubud for the cremation and I think these photos capture the ceremony beautifully. It was truly an amazing event.

    Posted by sylvia July 18, 08 04:48 PM
  13. Please...don't ever call an end to The Big Picture. What incredible photography!

    Posted by Dr. Mickey July 18, 08 06:05 PM
  14. Amazing photos. Those night shots are incredible. I love this blog.

    Posted by carolbrowne.com July 18, 08 06:08 PM
  15. "Picture# 12 looks straight out of hell." - yes...
    Great collection!

    Alex
    http://www.recentnews.co.uk

    Posted by Alex July 19, 08 04:09 PM
  16. #7 - Just checked out your photos. There's a world of difference between these and yours. You may want to start by holding your camera still, then read up on proper exposure and lighting.
    Also, IMHO, it's tacky trying to piggyback on this blog to get hits for your sophomoric efforts. We all have to start somewhere, but I'd suggest not tooting your horn until after the quality of your images improves.

    Posted by Alphonse July 19, 08 08:00 PM
  17. Along with beautiful pictures you also carry a beautiful story. It's wonderful to "witness" and learn the traditions and cultures of others as they happen. Bravo!

    Posted by Paola July 19, 08 10:33 PM
  18. love all the vividly pictures you took......excellent!

    Posted by indra July 20, 08 03:43 AM
  19. amazing pictures

    Posted by made July 20, 08 04:22 AM
  20. Super ! Magnifiques photos.

    Posted by Nosenzor July 20, 08 07:08 AM
  21. Simply brilliant!!!

    I will be still visiting itself, your photos are a marvel.

    A greeting.

    Posted by Ninona July 20, 08 10:39 AM
  22. #16 - Just checked out your message. There's a world of difference between constructive criticism and pointless denigration. You may want to start by holding your mouth still, then read up on proper manners and good taste.

    Also, IMHO, it's even more tacky trying to piggyback on this blog in an attempt to heal your own bruised ego. We all have to start somewhere, but I'd suggest not pointing out a person's imperfections until after the quality of your self image improves.

    Posted by sha July 20, 08 11:52 AM
  23. Maybe this was asked before, but who's taking these pictures?? Boston Globe correspondants? Is Alan the most well traveled man on the planet???

    Posted by graeme July 20, 08 03:43 PM
  24. #23 - Alan tries to get a credit on every picture. You can see it at the end of the description. For example, I read "(BAY ISMOYO/AFP/Getty Images)" as "someone named Bay Ismoyo from the 'AFP' service shot this photo, which Getty Images has now". (I may be wrong, though)

    Generally, Alan is pulling the images from wire news services that the Globe subscribes to.

    Posted by usernameguy July 20, 08 10:06 PM
  25. Ubud is an amazing place to visit. These are great photos.

    Posted by bostonfriend July 20, 08 10:40 PM
  26. if the money used for that farwell cerremony--pelebon--we allocate to make Indonesia Invincible then Indonesia will raise to Invincible very quickly and no more longer suffering and problem for Indonesian.

    Posted by i wayan sutrisna July 20, 08 11:43 PM

  27. We watched the prepartatons all the week before this, but had to leave Ubud, so is great to see how it went in the end..

    I'm curious what the town was like the days before.

    I heard they shut done acess. Was it crazy and packed wilth all places to stay 100% full?

    Posted by dennis July 21, 08 04:09 AM
  28. I LIKE BALI . THIS YEAR I MAKE SOME PLAN TO VISIT BALI AND TOBA LAKE .
    ITS. A GREAT PICTURES. THANKS TO BOSTON GLOBE . YOU NOW THAT BALI IS IN MY COUNTRY . I REALLY PROUD TO MY COUNTRY . LONG LIFE INDONESIA

    Posted by intra July 21, 08 06:22 AM
  29. Great

    Posted by Julie July 21, 08 06:26 AM
  30. This is an excellent blog, keep up the good work.
    Hugs from Portugal

    Posted by Raúl July 21, 08 07:12 AM
  31. Free Schapelle Corby.

    Posted by Self July 21, 08 09:45 AM
  32. to # 22!! amazing comeback, I admire your kindness and your spunk! You're a wonderful advocate! Of all the comments, one nasty can turn it off topic and ugly, thanks for putting the "nasty" in their place & ever so articulately if that is a word! I envy your command of the English language and ability to be succinct! Now the rest of us can enjoy the fantastic sharing of cultures!

    Posted by Barb July 21, 08 10:25 AM
  33. The pics are just wonderful. What camera do you use?

    Posted by Sudeshna July 22, 08 06:30 AM
  34. We just got back from Bali and were at the cremation ceremonies. It was absolutely amazing and these pictures tell and excellent story of the "real" thing.
    Bali is a fantastic place to visit with its rich culture, breath taking rice fields and its amazingly friendly people. I highly recommend it!

    Posted by Stans July 22, 08 08:42 PM
  35. That was a really big Upacara Ngaben in Hindu Bali.

    ps: Respect local law, don't bring your herbal boogie boards to enjoy other's culture. You'll get burned.

    Posted by Alter-self July 23, 08 12:05 AM
  36. It's not just a cremation ceremony & also it's not just a good pictures,It's a great installation,it's a wonderful masterwork,blended with beautiful Balinese traditional dance & Balinese musicians.It's a complete arts performance.we can't see this great of arts anywhere in the world .

    Posted by Prawira Gao July 23, 08 07:32 AM
  37. We were there for this ceremony!!!. . . It was truly incredible. As spectators on the street, the perspective as to the size and weight of these structures are hard to believe. These photographs are remarkable, and well appreciated since we couldn't get into the cemetery area after the procession to see the cremation itself.
    Bali is a fantastic place on earth!

    Posted by Susan Cole July 23, 08 10:29 PM
  38. Thanks for sharing this rare ceremony for all the world to see! Cleared of the jihadist extremists, Bali is certainly wonderful, and its people are also. You may find it is like heaven on earth! Visit this wonderful island when you have the chance. Been away for 38 years from Indonesia, but still have intimate ties with friends in this, what the Dutch called "de gordel van smaragd".

    Posted by Stefanus Kristddja July 24, 08 02:53 PM
  39. Thanks for posting all of these great photos. My daughter is is Bali on a service project and was in Ubud to see this great event. She said that the crowds were so thick that they almost got trampled in all of the excitement. Since we are not there with her, it is awesome to see such great photos of something so spectacular that she was able to witness. Thank-you again!

    Posted by Inger Henderson July 25, 08 11:30 PM
  40. it is just marvelous and spectacular photos, keep up the work and thank you for sharing these awesome pictures as well as the explanation texts.

    Posted by kim July 26, 08 09:04 AM
  41. Thanks for sharing,never seen anything like that since I'm from Indo myself.

    Posted by Lana Lie July 26, 08 12:34 PM
  42. Your fantastic photograph take,......i am the witness of the ceremony. beautiful,.......pleased viisit Bali and Indonesia next week 6 August start for The Sanur vestival welcome to Bali and please not bring drugs because penalty death sentence. thanks

    Posted by Utomo July 27, 08 03:58 AM
  43. In this difficult economic situation his type of cremation cost a lot of money but it is not only tradition but Religion, so let's go for it !
    The pictures are stunningly beautiful !!

    Posted by Soeminar Soeryakoesoema July 27, 08 06:11 AM
  44. looks greats......

    Posted by toker sujana July 28, 08 12:07 AM
  45. Every NGABEN ceremony is very very costy indeed! However, Balinese people normally preserve bodies of loved ones for some time, oftentimes for years, waiting for a suitable 'time' for a mass ceremony like this one, when someone rich enough could afford to have this religious, grandiose ritual conducted. Hindu is a peaceful religion and the Balinese embrace Hindu.

    My daughter Aya from Japan was lucky to be in Bali during this ceremony. I was born, grew up and spent most of my life in Indonesia myself. Saya merindukan Indonesia. Hidup Indonesia !!!

    Posted by Christina Yamamura July 28, 08 05:18 PM
  46. I Love Indonesia......

    Posted by Dalmuji July 28, 08 10:27 PM
  47. Bob, this are awesome pictures!! Thanks for sharing with me.

    Posted by Greg July 29, 08 02:17 PM
  48. Conoscevo, ma mai visto foto così efficaci. Grazie a Hedy Tisna per avermele mandate da Singapore.

    Posted by Pastor Agostino Clementini S.X. July 30, 08 03:40 AM
  49. Beautiful! Indah sekali!
    I have a home in Penestanan (next to Ubud). When last there in May, the preparations were beginning for this event. I have never seen such large cremation bulls...and I have seen scores of cremations.
    I have taken hundreds of photos of burning towers and bulls, but these are by far the best I have ever seen.
    The King of Ubud was very beloved.
    Bali is truly heaven on earth....they live their beliefs.

    Posted by Karen July 30, 08 01:39 PM
  50. Wonderful pictures. I am going to saw all the pictures in the Residential Home.
    Saya sangat senang menyaksikan photo2 pengabenan di Bali.

    Posted by Agustini Roberts August 4, 08 05:49 PM
  51. Very impressive!!! Excellent photograpy.

    Posted by Michael Liem August 8, 08 04:01 AM
  52. Excellent photography. Having been in Ubud for two big cremations, I know the enormous crowds that gather and how difficult it is to get good photos. Bali is truly a magic place, and the world can learn a lot from the way Balinese treat each other and those of us who visit.

    Posted by Alice Tuckeeer August 9, 08 09:35 PM
  53. Fantastic photographies! Fantastiques photos!

    Posted by Nathalie M. August 16, 08 04:26 PM
  54. I miss Bali so much, your expressive pictures make it worst. Bali...... wait for me next month. Babi Guling Bu Oka, Ayam Kadewatan, Warung Murni wait for me........

    Posted by Maureen August 24, 08 09:35 PM
  55. Nice Picture..as Indonesian i love bali so much...

    Posted by rahman August 25, 08 01:01 PM
  56. Terima kasih untuk foto2 mengenai crematie di Bali. Saya lahir di Denpasar dan Oma saya dari Tejakula. Waktu crematie teachir di Ubud dari Niang Rai Mengwi saya juga menghadlirnya, tetapi sayang karena terlalu banyak peninjaunya maupun turis2 saya tak dapat mengikuti pembakaran mayatnya. tetapi dengan foto2 yang diatas saya kagum dan puas sekali, seperti benar2 real. Yang saya juga bangga dan hormati penduduk Bali, bahwa waktu itu seluruh jalan dimana mayat liwat dibersihkan, dan karena saya ir listrik bahwa kabel listrik diputuskan. Bayangkan kalau itu terjadi disini pasti protes karena tak ada penjualan di restoran, maupun tak ada listrik di rumah selama satu hari.
    Salam dari negeri Belanda

    Posted by K.Pijpaert August 29, 08 12:20 PM
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