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Globe Editorial

KFC: Who's the fattiest of them all?

April 26, 2010

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KFC’s newest offering has redefined the American sandwich landscape. The Double Down sandwich consists of two fried chicken breasts, bacon, cheese, and special sauce. “This product is so meaty,’’ reports KFC’s website with the sort of pride usually reserved for a child’s flawless piano recital, “there’s no room for a bun!’’

Maybe not, but there is room for criticism. If the American public is serious about rejecting all sensible dietary guidelines, KFC completely fails to deliver. The Double Down poses as the atomic bomb of artery-clogging, but it’s really just a grenade. Many people would have to wait years for a heart attack, even if they ate one every day.

Americans have long mastered double-, triple-, and quadruple-decker sandwiches. And yet this ostensibly innovative new sandwich features just one story — a design that is outdated and ill-suited to sate the average American gullet. And it contains merely two types of meat. Would it have killed KFC to add ground beef? Some pork? And, to wash the whole thing down a bit, a bucket of nacho cheese for dipping? If there’s one thing Americans are qualified to do, it’s judge fast-food sandwiches, and they are likely to punish KFC for not going nearly far enough. The Double Down is just a 540-calorie disappointment.

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