Big Tuna
What's the secret to perfectly preparing the beefiest of fish? Do what the Italians do: braise it.
Rare, even raw tuna may be in vogue - but it is not to everybody's taste. That said, it's best not to let the pendulum swing too far in the other direction, either. Dry, overcooked tuna is no treat. Where, then, is that perfect middle ground of moist, tender tuna with just the barest hint of pink at the center? Italian cooks braise tuna to bring out its best. The final drizzle of extra virgin olive oil just before serving unifies the elements of each dish.
TUNA BRAISED WITH SWEET AND SOUR ONIONS
SERVES 4
Adapted from The Romagnolis' Italian Fish Cookbook, by Margaret and G. Franco Romagnoli (Henry Holt).
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
3 large onions, halved and thinly sliced
Pinch hot red pepper flakes
2 medium bay leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
2 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or more to taste
2 pounds fresh tuna steaks, about 1 inch thick
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
In a large saute pan with straight sides, warm 1/3 cup of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions, red pepper flakes, bay leaves, 1 teaspoon salt, and sugar, and stir to coat the onions. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, until onions soften and turn deep gold, about 20 minutes. Add garlic, thyme, raisins, vinegar, and wine, and cook, stirring occasionally, to blend flavors, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle the tuna steaks with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and the black pepper, place them in the pan, and cover with the onion mixture. Cover the pan, reduce heat to low, and cook until the tuna is mostly opaque and very faintly pink at the center, about 15 minutes. Transfer the tuna to a serving platter; add 3 tablespoons parsley to the onions and stir to distribute. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary, top the tuna with the onion mixture, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with the remaining parsley, and serve at once.
TUNA BRAISED WITH ESCAROLE AND CHICKPEAS
SERVES 4
Adapted from All About Braising, by Molly Stevens (W.W. Norton).
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
4 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
Pinch hot red pepper flakes
1/2 head escarole, roughly chopped (about 6 cups)
1 can (19 ounces) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup homemade or packaged low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or more to taste
2 pounds fresh tuna steaks,about 1 inch thick
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
Lemon wedges for serving
In a large saute pan with straight sides, warm 1/3 cup of olive oil, garlic, rosemary, and red pepper flakes over very low heat. Cover the pan and continue cooking over very low heat until garlic is soft, fragrant and very light gold, about 3 minutes. Add the escarole and stir to coat it with the oil. Increase the heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, until the escarole wilts, about 4 minutes. Add the chickpeas, broth, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan, and cook, stirring occasionally, to heat the chickpeas and blend the flavors, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle the tuna steaks with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and the black pepper and place them in the pan, covering them with the escarole mixture. Cover the pan, reduce heat to low, and cook until the tuna is mostly opaque and very faint pink at the center, about 15 minutes. Transfer the tuna to a serving platter; add the remaining 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 3 tablespoons of parsley to the escarole mixture and stir to distribute. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary, top the tuna with the escarole mixture, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with the remaining parsley, and serve at once with lemon wedges.
TUNA BRAISED WITH OLIVES, TOMATOES, AND MINT
SERVES 4
Adapted from Cucina del Mare, by Evan Kleiman (William Morrow).
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 small onion, chopped
3 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed
Pinch hot red pepper flakes
2/3 cup diced canned tomatoes
2/3 cup green olives, pitted and quartered lengthwise
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or more to taste
2 pounds fresh tuna steaks, about 1 inch thick
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
In a large saute pan with straight sides, warm 1/3 cup of olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes, stir to coat, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, olives, 3 tablespoons of mint, the oregano, wine, and 1/2 teaspoon salt, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, to blend flavors and thicken slightly, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle the tuna steaks with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and the black pepper, place them in the pan, and cover with the tomato mixture. Cover the pan, reduce heat to low, and cook until the tuna is mostly opaque and very faint pink at the center, about 15 minutes. Transfer the tuna to a serving platter; add the parsley to the tomato mixture and stir to distribute. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary, top the tuna with the tomato mixture, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of mint, and serve at once.
Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com. 