Going Green

IN THE DARK DAYS OF WINTER, PARSLEY SURE DOES BRIGHTEN A MEAL.

(Photographs by Jim Scherer, Styling by Catrine Kelty)

This is the time of year when every fiber of my being craves something fresh and green. A simple green salad helps, but there's nothing as powerful as parsley.

You heard me right: parsley. In my kitchen, it's way more than just a garnish. It is the taste of pure green, a real palate reviver. I have found that curly parsley can be tough and dull-tasting. Italian, or flat-leaf, is my parsley of choice because of its fresh fragrance and clean, sweet flavor. Though it may require a bit more patience than you have on tap as the dinner hour nears, consider removing the leaves from the stems, which sensitive palates might register as gritty. Put this step in the same category as warming your dinner plates - nice if you can manage it, no problem if you can't.

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER AND PARSLEY SALAD
SERVES 6

The components of this salad can be made in advance and assembled just before serving.

1 large head cauliflower, cut into florets
1/4 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper, plus extra for dressing
1 1/2 tablespoons white wine or champagne vinegar
1 medium shallot, minced
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup walnut or hazelnut oil
4 cups loosely packed torn
Italian parsley leaves
1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts, toasted and cooled

Set the oven rack in the middle position and heat the oven to 450 degrees. In a large bowl, toss the cauliflower, olive oil, and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper. On a large rimmed baking sheet, spread cauliflower in a single layer with any cut sides down, cover the pan tightly with foil, and roast until cauliflower is just turning tender, about 20 minutes. Remove the foil and continue roasting until cauliflower is fully tender and golden brown on the bottom, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and allow cauliflower to cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix the vinegar, shallot, mustard, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Vigorously whisk in half of the nut oil until the mixture is smooth, and then the remaining nut oil. Season the dressing to taste with pepper.

In a large bowl, toss the parsley with about 2 tablespoons of the dressing to coat lightly, and arrange the dressed parsley as a bed on a serving platter. In the same bowl, toss the cooled cauliflower with the remaining dressing to coat and arrange on the bed of parsley. Sprinkle the cauliflower and parsley with the toasted hazelnuts and serve.

TABBOULEH
SERVES 6

During most of the year, cherry or grape tomatoes taste better than most other supermarket tomatoes, which is why they're used here. If you decide to make tabbouleh in high summer, 3 medium ripe local tomatoes, seeded and diced, should do the trick. A Lebanese dish, tabbouleh is traditionally eaten scooped up in lettuce leaves. This recipe is adapted from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden (Alfred A. Knopf).

1 1/4 cups fine- or medium-grain bulgur, rinsed and drained
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons), or to taste
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
Pepper, to taste
1 1/2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, each one quartered
6 medium scallions, thinly sliced
1 cup chopped fresh mint
3 cups loosely packed chopped Italian parsley leaves
2 romaine lettuce hearts, leaves separated,
for garnish and scooping

In a medium bowl, soak the bulgur in cold water to cover by about 2 inches for about 15 minutes. In a mesh strainer, drain and rinse the soaked bulgur under running water, then press to express as much moisture as possible. In a medium bowl, mix the bulgur and 1/4 cup lemon juice and set aside to allow bulgur to absorb the lemon juice, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix the remaining lemon juice and salt to blend. Vigorously whisk in half of the olive oil to blend, and then the remaining olive oil. Season the dressing with pepper.

Add the tomatoes, scallions, mint, parsley, and dressing to the bulgur, toss to combine, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside for flavors to blend, about 40 minutes. To serve, arrange the tabbouleh on a serving platter and surround with the romaine leaves.

SALSA VERDE
MAKES 1 GENEROUS CUP

Salsa verde, which means "green sauce" in both Italian and Spanish, exists in several culinary traditions. In Mexico, the dish generally includes chilies, onions, cilantro, and lime - and often tomatillos, too. This recipe is an interpretation of the Italian version (parsley, capers, garlic, anchovy, and lemon), with a little French twist from the cornichons. It's not for timid taste buds. Use it on sandwiches or as a garnish for boiled potatoes or roasted or grilled meat, fish, or poultry.

1 slice white sandwich bread, very lightly toasted, crust removed, and torn into pieces
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 medium garlic clove, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped cornichons (about 4 whole)
1 1/2 tablespoons capers, drained
1 1/2 oil-packed anchovy fillets
3 scallions, thinly sliced
2 1/2 cups loosely packed whole Italian parsley leaves
1/8 teaspoon salt

In a food processor, process the bread, olive oil, and lemon juice until smooth. With a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl, then add the garlic, cornichons, capers, anchovy, scallions, parsley, and salt, and process, stopping to scrape bowl as necessary, to desired texture (from chunky to smooth). Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and serve. The salsa may be kept refrigerated for up to 3 days. It should be brought to room temperature before serving.