More Than Meat Loaf
Just in time for Tax Day, the ultimate comfort food returns.
Familiar, substantial meat loaf is about as comforting as food can be. Only rarely, though, is the dish a showstopper. Yet when my friend Elizabeth first served me a loaf concealing hard-cooked eggs, I nearly fell off my chair. The eggs lend the humble loaf a bit of lighthearted elegance, not to mention a surprise. And, hey, who wouldn't love a little easy glamour along with their comfort? Speaking of easy, make sure to line cooking pans and racks with foil (poke holes in the foil covering racks), to minimize cleanup.
SAUSAGE AND SPINACH MEAT LOAF WITH EGGS
SERVES 6
5 eggs, 3 of them hard-cooked and peeled
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
20 ounces (two 10-ounce packages) frozen chopped spinach, cooked and drained
1 1/2 pounds ground chuck
1/2 pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
20 saltine crackers, crushed
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
Adjust the oven rack to the center position and heat the oven to 375 degrees. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet with a wire rack inside. In a medium bowl, beat the 2 raw eggs lightly, add the yogurt, mustard, salt, pepper, and thyme, and mix to blend. Set aside. Spread a clean dish towel on work surface, place drained spinach in center of towel, gather edges and corners, and, working over the sink, twist the towel to wring out as much liquid as possible. Empty spinach into a large bowl and add the ground chuck, sausage, and cracker crumbs, and set aside.
In a medium skillet set over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Then add the egg and the onion mixtures to the spinach and meat. Using a wooden spoon, gently fold until well blended. On the rack, use half of the mixture to form the bottom of a roughly 9-by-5-inch loaf; place the 3 cooked eggs in a row on the bottom, and use the remaining meat mixture to form the top of the loaf. Bake until a thermometer inserted near the center of the loaf (but not into an egg) registers 155 to 160 degrees, 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours. Allow the meat loaf to cool for at least 15 minutes, and serve warm or at room temperature.
GLAZED MEAT LOAF
SERVES 6
1/4 cup ketchup
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, separated
2 eggs
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 pounds meat loaf mix, or 1 1/2 pounds ground chuck and 1/2 pound ground pork
20 saltine crackers, crushed
1/4 cup chopped parsley
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
Adjust the oven rack to the center position and heat the oven to 375 degrees. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet with a wire rack inside. In a small bowl, mix the ketchup, vinegar, brown sugar, and 1 tablespoon of the mustard, and set aside (for the glaze). In a medium bowl, beat the eggs lightly, add the yogurt, the remaining 1 tablespoon of mustard, the Worcestershire and hot pepper sauces, salt, black pepper, and thyme, and mix to blend. Set aside. In a large bowl, place the meat, cracker crumbs, and parsley, and set aside.
In a medium skillet set over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Then add the egg and the onion mixtures to the meat. Using a wooden spoon, gently fold until well blended. On the rack, form the mixture into a roughly 9-by-5-inch loaf, and, using a brush, cover with a thick layer of the glaze. Bake until a thermometer inserted near the center of the loaf registers 155 to 160 degrees, 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours. Allow the meat loaf to cool for at least 15 minutes, and serve warm or at room temperature.
LENTIL LOAF WITH TOMATO SAUCE
SERVES 6
This is an adaptation of a recipe from food stylist Catrine Kelty.
Butter for the pan and loaf
3 large eggs
1/2 cup ricotta cheese
1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 1/2 teaspoons hot pepper sauce
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
2 1/4 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon black pepper, plus extra for sauce
4 cups cooked du Puy lentils
20 saltine crackers, crushed
6 ounces fontina or Monterey Jack cheese, grated
1/4 cup chopped parsley
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, finely chopped
2 cups sliced mushrooms
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 14 1/2-ounce cans diced tomatoes, with their juices
3 tablespoons minced basil
Adjust the oven rack to the center position and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter an 8- or 9-inch loaf pan, line with foil, and butter the foil.
In a medium bowl, beat the eggs lightly, add the ricotta, mustard, hot pepper sauce, thyme, 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt, and 3/4 teaspoon of pepper and mix to blend. Set aside.
In a large bowl, with clean hands, mash and mix the lentils with the cracker crumbs, grated cheese, and parsley, and set aside.
In a medium skillet set over medium heat, heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of oil until shimmering. Add the onion, carrot, mushrooms, and 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and cook until the onions are soft, about 8 minutes. Add half of the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Then add the egg and the onion mixtures to the lentil mixture, set- ting aside the skillet for use later. Using a wooden spoon, gently fold until well blended, and turn it into the prepared pan. Even out and compact the mixture in the pan, dot the top with butter, and bake until browned, about 50 minutes. Allow the loaf to cool for 15 minutes, then use a paring knife to loosen it from the pan, and carefully invert and peel away the foil.
Meanwhile, return the skillet to a burner set to medium, add the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons of oil, and heat for a moment. Add the remaining garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until it is sizzling, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened, about 15 minutes. Add the basil, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt, and pepper to taste, and stir to mix. Transfer to a dish and serve with the lentil loaf, passing the tomato sauce separately.
Send comments and suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com.
