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CRAVINGS

Treasures From the Tandoor

No taste of india is complete (forget the flight!) without a basketful of hot and doughy nan.

Chopped cashews and golden raisins make this nan the best bite around.
Chopped cashews and golden raisins make this nan the best bite around. (Photography by Suzanne Kreiter)
Email|Print|Single Page| Text size + By Janice O'Leary
May 18, 2008

SHAHI NAN $3.50, Tamarind Bay (The best!)

Nan, or naan, is served at nearly every meal in some parts of India, but chef Wali Ahmad makes one you don't find often in Boston. His Shahi nan, named after a royal dynasty, has chopped cashews and golden raisins rolled into the dough. The subtly sweet and nutty flavors make this bread ideal for dipping into curries or eating by itself. "You won't find this one in other Indian restaurants," Ahmad says. "It's gourmet Indian, not home cooking." Like other nans, this one is baked in a traditional clay oven, called a tandoor, until it's crispy on the edges but still soft and stretchy enough in the middle to mop up his spicy sauces. Bottom line The perfect post-shopping snack in Harvard Square.

PESHAWARY NAN $4.50, Punjab

This flatbread is stuffed with a thin layer of coconut, almonds, and plump golden raisins before it's slipped into the oven. The dough gets an extra richness from a splash of cream. "Business people always used to go to Peshawar in Afghanistan and they brought this back," says owner Gurinder Pabla. "That's how it became popular in India." The perfect pairing for this nan is the restaurant's homemade tamarind chutney, a sweet-and-sour blend of tamarind, sugar, coriander, and toasted cumin seeds. Bottom line Too much of this tempting treat, and you can skip dessert.

GARLIC NAN $3.50, India Quality

One of the most popular in the Hub, garlic nan reaches perfection at this subterranean Kenmore Square hideaway. The chefs here sprinkle just the right amount of garlic and chopped herbs into the white flour dough before rolling it out. The baked result is light and airy with lots of flavor. Bottom line The bread is even better dipped in the onion, mint, or tamarind chutneys offered on the table.

Tamarind Bay 75 Winthrop Street, Cambridge, 617-491-4552, tamarind-bay.com

Punjab 485 Massachusetts Avenue, Arlington, 781-643-0943, punjabarlington.com

India Quality 484 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, 617-267-4499, indiaquality.com

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