Go Fish

A Hawaiian classic, done four ways.

Think of "poke' as dressed-up sashimi; here, tuna with scallions and sesame. (Photograph by Jim Scherer; styling by Catrine Kelty)

I know a guy who moved to Hawaii from Massachusetts last year, and when the topic of food in his new home state arises, he raves about "poke" (it rhymes with croquet). He's not alone. Everyone I know who visits Hawaii - including me - comes home talking about the dish, which is sold in every supermarket, lunch counter, and mom-and-pop corner grocery. At its simplest, poke is cubes of raw fish, usually tuna, mixed with seaweed and barely seasoned with a little bit of chili and a squirt of citrus. Think of sashimi with a light dressing.

For creative cooks, poke is a blank slate, inviting experimentation with different fish, seasonings, and accouterments. In New England, salmon is abundant; though hardly authentic, it works beautifully in the dish and gives it a local twist. Likewise, tofu is not traditional, but offers a choice for those disinclined toward raw fish. (A note on ingredients: You can buy dried wakame, a type of seaweed, at any market selling Asian ingredients and at some Whole Foods stores and fish markets.)

TUNA OR SALMON POKE WITH SESAME
SERVES 6 AS A SNACK OR APPETIZER

2 tablespoons (about ounce) dried wakame
1 pound sushi-quality fresh tuna or salmon, skinned
3 tablespoons salted, dry-roasted cashews, toasted and very finely chopped
1/4 small red onion, minced
1/2 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely diced
1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil Salt, preferably sea salt or kosher
5 scallions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted and cooled

In a medium bowl, cover the wakame with cold water and rehydrate until tender and about doubled in volume, about 5 minutes. Drain wakame, squeeze dry, chop finely, and return to the bowl.

Meanwhile, dice the fish into 1/2-inch cubes and add to the bowl. Add the cashews, red onion, cu- cumber, soy sauce, sesame oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 4 scallions. Stir to mix, cover, and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours. Sprinkle with remaining scallion and sesame seeds, and serve at once.

SIMPLEST TUNA OR SALMON POKE
SERVES 6 AS A SNACK OR APPETIZER

2 tablespoons (about ounce) dried wakame
1 pound sushi-quality fresh tuna or salmon, skinned
3 tablespoons salted, dry- roasted cashews, toasted and very finely chopped
1 teaspoon Asian chili-garlic paste Salt, preferably sea salt or kosher
5 scallions, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

In a medium bowl, cover the wakame with cold water and rehydrate until tender and about doubled in volume, about 5 minutes. Drain wakame, squeeze dry, chop finely, and return to the bowl.

Meanwhile, dice the fish into 1/2-inch cubes and place in the bowl with the wakame. Add the cashews, chili-garlic paste, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 4 scallions. Stir to mix, cover, and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours. Add the lemon juice and stir to mix, sprinkle with remaining scallion, and serve at once.

TUNA OR SALMON POKE WITH MANGO AND RED PEPPER
SERVES 6 AS A SNACK OR APPETIZER

2 tablespoons (about ounce) dried wakame
1 pound sushi-quality fresh tuna or salmon, skinned
14 cup salted, dry-roasted macadamia nuts, toasted and very finely chopped
1 medium mango, peeled, flesh chopped small
1/2 red bell pepper, finely chopped
1/4 small sweet onion, minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
1 medium fresh serrano chili, seeded and minced, or more to taste
1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Salt, preferably sea salt or kosher
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
5 scallions, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice

In a medium bowl, cover the wakame with cold water and rehydrate until tender and about doubled in volume, about 5 minutes. Drain wakame, squeeze dry, chop finely, and return to bowl.

Meanwhile, dice the fish into 1/2-inch cubes and place in the bowl with the wakame. Add the macadamia nuts, mango, pepper, onion, ginger, garlic, chili, soy sauce, sesame oil, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, cilantro, and 4 scallions. Stir to mix, cover, and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours. Add the lime juice and stir to mix, sprinkle with remaining scallion, and serve at once.

TOFU POKE WITH TOMATO
SERVES 6 AS A SNACK OR APPETIZER

1 block (about 14 ounces) firm or extra-firm tofu, drained
1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1 1/2 tablespoons Asian chili-garlic paste
2 tablespoons (about ounce) dried wakame
3 tablespoons salted, dry-roasted cashews, toasted and very finely chopped small sweet onion, minced
1/2 medium tomato, chopped
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
5 scallions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted and cooled

Cut the tofu into 1/2-inch cubes. In a small bowl or measuring cup, whisk the soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, brown sugar, ginger, and chili-garlic paste, and set aside.

In a medium bowl, cover the wakame with cold water and rehydrate until tender and about doubled in volume, about 5 minutes. Drain wakame, squeeze dry, chop finely, and return to the bowl. Add the tofu, cashews, onion, tomato, cilantro, 4 scallions, and the soy sauce mixture. Stir gently to mix, cover, and refrigerate to blend flavors, about 30 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining scallion and sesame seeds, and serve at once.

Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com.