Playing It Cool
Three cucumber salads show off one of the summer garden?s earliest arrivals.
Cucumber salads are common in many parts of the world, though in most cases the cukes are sentenced to drowning by dairy, with thick dressings made from sour cream or yogurt. I imagined a fresher, fruitier fate for my cukes. The inspiration came from fresh fruit salsas, which I make all summer long to accompany grilled fish, chicken, and pork.
It's a fine line between salsa and salad. In the recipes here, the cucumbers are sliced and the other primary ingredients are left in relatively hefty pieces; chop the cukes and other ingredients anywhere from coarse to fine, and voila - your salad becomes a salsa. In either salad or salsa guise, serve these with food from the grill. Combine the cucumbers, dressing, and other ingredients at the very last minute before serving - these all taste best just after mixing.
SPICY CUCUMBER SALAD WITH MANGO AND PEANUTS
SERVES 6
A mango that is just shy of ripe is ideal here. Adjust the amount of chilies to your taste.
4 cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced Salt
1 small orange or yellow bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1 medium mango, peeled, flesh cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1 cup)
1/2 cup finely chopped red onion
1 medium serrano chili, seeded, if desired, and minced (about 1 tablespoon)
2/2 cup roasted, salted peanuts, coarsely chopped
2 1/2 tablespoons lime juice from
1 lime, or more, to taste
1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves
Toss the cucumbers with 1 tablespoon of salt in a strainer or colander set over a bowl. Fill a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag about halfway with water, seal, and place on top of the cucumbers to weight them down, and leave for at least 1 hour. Rinse the cucumbers and dry well with paper towels, transfer to a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.
In a large bowl, combine the cucumbers, bell pepper, mango, onion, chili, and 1/2 cup of the peanuts, and toss to combine. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt, the lime juice, and 6 tablespoons of the cilantro, and toss to combine. Taste the salad, adjust seasoning with additional salt and lime juice, if necessary, sprinkle with remaining peanuts and cilantro, and serve at once.
CUCUMBER SALAD WITH JICAMA AND PLUMS
SERVES 6
4 cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced
Salt and black pepper
1 teaspoon finely grated zest and 2 teaspoons (or more, to taste) freshly squeezed juice from 1 lime
2 teaspoons white balsamic vinegar, or more, to taste
2 teaspoons honey, or more, to taste
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 small jicama, peeled and cut into matchsticks (about 2 cups)
3 ripe black plums, pitted and cut into 3/4-inch pieces
6 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
Toss the cucumbers with 1 tablespoon of salt in a strainer or colander set over a bowl. Fill a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag about halfway with water, seal, and place on top of cucumbers to weight them down, and leave for at least 1 hour. Rinse the cucumbers and dry well with paper towels, transfer to a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix the lime zest and juice, vinegar, honey, cayenne, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Vigorously whisk in the olive oil, then taste and season with additional salt, lime juice, vinegar or honey, if desired, and black pepper to taste. Add the jicama, plums, and dressing to the cucumbers, toss gently to coat everything evenly, add the mint and toss again, and serve at once.
CUCUMBER, GRAPEFRUIT, AND WATERCRESS SALAD
SERVES 6
4 cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced
Salt and pepper
2 large red grapefruits
1 teaspoon finely grated zest and 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly squeezed juice from 1 lemon, or more, to taste
1 1/2 teaspoons grapefruit, lemon, or orange marmalade, or more, to taste
1 medium shallot, minced (about 1 tablespoon)
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch watercress, leaves and thin stems only (about 2 cups packed)
Toss the cucumbers with 1 tablespoon of salt in a strainer or colander set over a bowl. Fill a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag about halfway with water, seal, and place on top of cucumbers to weight them down, and leave for at least 1 hour. Rinse the cucumbers and dry well with paper towels, transfer to a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.
With a sharp, thin-bladed knife, cut the ends from the grapefruits and trim all the peel and white pith. Working over a strainer or colander set over a bowl, cut the segments free of the membranes by inserting the knife between the membrane and the pulp of each segment and cutting toward the center, dropping the segments into the strainer as you go. Drain segments for about 1 hour. Add the segments to the cucumbers.
In a medium bowl, mix the lemon zest and juice, marmalade, shallot, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Vigorously whisk in the olive oil, then taste and season with additional salt, lemon juice, or marmalade, if desired, and pepper to taste. Pour the dressing over the cucumber-grapefruit mixture, add the watercress, toss gently to coat everything evenly, and serve at once.
Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com. 