Head for the Hills

Barely 10 miles from downtown is the largest open space in Greater Boston, an overlooked haven where the concrete-weary can take a hike, swim in a blissful pond, jog through the woods, ride horses, bike on dirt or paved trails, canoe in isolation, or just picnic in the park. Herein, our summer primer on the Blue Hills Reservation.

(Photograph by Josh Campbell) Fishing at the Blue Hills Reservation

As I take the first few steps of a run on the quiet Ponkapoag Trail in Blue Hills Reservation one sunny spring Saturday morning, my first thought is: "Why don't I do this more often?" Blue Hills, a 7,000-acre reservation that touches Quincy, Braintree, Randolph, Milton, and Canton, is only about 10 miles from downtown Boston. And yet, when I quiz locals about whether they take advantage of it, the typical response is: "Um, I think I've been there once." The reservation was established in 1893 as part of landscape architect Charles Eliot's strategy to preserve parkland all around the city. Today, the Blue Hills Reservation is the largest open space in the Greater Boston area - overseen by the Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation (DCR). Don't let another summer pass by without exploring it.

Rock Climbing
Blue Hills' Quincy Quarries Reservation (Ricciuti Drive, West Quincy, 617-727-4573), which was last active as a quarry in 1963, is one of the best-loved rock climbing spots in Massachusetts, with its assortment of walls and faces and opportunities for traditional climbing, top-roping, and bouldering. Recent cleanup efforts, and the filling of the main area with leftover Big Dig dirt, have made it a more inviting destination.

Hills hint
Don't know a belay from a boulder? Sign up for a rock climbing clinic or private lesson at Quincy Quarries from Duxbury-based Top Rope (781-534-2499, top-roping.com).

Fishing
Houghton's Pond and Pine Tree Brook are stocked with brown and rainbow trout for anglers. Ponkapoag Pond isn't stocked, but you can take a canoe or kayak out (no motorized fishing boats) and fish the native population.

Hills hint
Get tips to improve your fishing technique during the Houghton's Pond Fish Festival July 26 from 10 a.m. till 3 p.m. The event includes clinics on everything from hook baiting to casting, and rods are available if you don't have your own.

Did you know?
Fishing is only allowed for those with a state fishing license. Obtain one online from the Massachusetts Department of Fish and Game, also known as MassOutdoors, at sport.state.ma.us, or call 617-626-1600.

Trail Running
These Blues aren't made just for walking. Blue Hills provides a perfect training ground for trail runners, with lots of steep uphills and downhills to challenge your legs, as well as moderate trails where you can go for miles. Though there are no trail races on the docket for this summer, the reservation often hosts them along the Skyline Trail, which stretches 9 miles and offers around 2,500 feet of climbing. For a more moderate jog, try a carriage road, such as Bugbee Path or Wolcott Path.

Hills hint
No car? No problem. Blue Hills is accessible by public transportation; it just takes a little patience. To get to Great Blue Hill, take the Red Line to Ashmont Station. From Ashmont, take the high-speed line to Mattapan, and then hop on the Canton and Blue Hills bus to reach the Blue Hills Trailside Museum and Great Blue Hill.

Road Biking
"The paved roads in the Blue Hills are in fantastic shape," says cycling club official Sean Campbell. "And it's a beautiful place to ride. We feel very, very lucky to have this resource." In addition to riding through some part of the reservation during the club's daily morning outings, Campbell enjoys what he calls an "elevation tour" - two to four 25-mile laps within the reservation, "going up and down the whole time." His favorite roads include Chickatawbut and Unquity (and nearby off shoots), and he says anyone looking for an intense uphill challenge should head straight for Summit Road, which goes to the observatory atop Great Blue Hill.

Hills hint
Because some auto commuters use the roads through Blue Hills as a shortcut, cyclists don't love the traffic here weekday mornings and evenings. Try riding at lunchtime during the week or early on weekend mornings.

Paddling
Visitors are welcome to canoe or kayak on 230-acre Ponkapoag Pond and the Neponset River. Since no motorized boats are allowed, expect a peaceful experience and opportunities to spot wildlife. "It feels like you're way up in Maine out there," says park ranger Dave Furey. "The only 'modern' thing you can see is the weather observatory on Great Blue Hill."

Hills hint
There are no boats for rent within Blue Hills, but kayak rentals are available nearby from EMS in Canton (Village Shoppes of Canton, 95 Washington Street, 781-401-9316, ems.com).

Did you know?
The Ponkapoag Bog is an Atlantic white-cedar bog with a boardwalk running through it that allows visitors to observe its various habitats and ecosystems.

Mountain Biking
The section of Blue Hills bordered by Route 28 to the east, Interstate 93 to the south, and Route 138 to the west - which includes the Great Blue Hill and Houghton's Pond areas of the reservation - has dozens of mountainbiking trails for riders of every ability. There's a great variety of single, double, and triple track. Sean Campbell, president of the Blue Hills Cycling Club (for mountain and road bikers), cites Border Path and Five Corners Path as two of his favorite accessible-for-most-levels rides. Whatever your preference, be sure to stay off trails marked with a no-bikes symbol, because riding on these trails could damage habitat or cause soil erosion. Mountain-biking maps are available at the reservation headquarters.
Hills hint
The weekend, especially late mornings and afternoons, is the most popular time for hikers. So the ideal time to ride your mountain bike (if you don't love slowing down or stopping often for folks on foot) is during the week or early in the morning on weekends. Be sure to get off your bike when you see a horse, so you don't startle it, and always yield to hikers. Sean Campbell suggests making noise as you approach hikers, so you don't catch them off guard.

Swimming

Find relief from the heat in Houghton’s Pond, a 24-acre spring-fed kettle pond. Lifeguards keep an eye on things daily in July and August, and there are restrooms in the bathhouse on the beach. Expect crowds here on hot days, especially on the Fourth of July, says Dave Furey, a Blue Hills park ranger

for almost nine years. If you’ve got kids, the nearby swings and slides are a great distraction.

Hills hint
Blue Hills literature states that the beach at Houghton’s Pond is the only place where swimming is allowed. Which is true, unless you’re one of the 95 lucky people to score a permit to swim in Ponkapoag Pond on a given day. People who’ve rented one of the Appalachian Mountain Club cabins at Ponkapoag Camp get priority, but when the 95-person limit isn’t maxed out, day passes are available. (“On Saturdays in the summer, there’s not much chance of getting one at the last minute,” says the AMC’s Roger Scholl. “But Monday through Thursday, there’s a pretty good shot.”) Call 781-961-7007 to learn more.

Hiking

More than 135 miles of hiking trails provide plenty of variety for all levels of hikers, whether you want meandering fire roads or steep, narrow climbs. Peak baggers, pay attention: The Blue Hills include 22 hills, one of which (Great Blue Hill) is the Eastern Seaboard’s highest coastal point south of Maine, at 635 feet. Hiking is the most popular activity at the reservation, so mainstream trails can get crowded, especially on weekends, but there’s usually solitude to be found somewhere. And you can try visiting at off-peak hours. “Sunset from the top of Buck Hill [496 feet, with views of the city skyline and the Boston Harbor Islands] or Great Blue Hill is spectacular,” says ranger Dave Furey. Pick up a trail map at the reservation headquarters (695 Hillside Street, Milton, 617-698-1802) or at the Blue Hills Trailside Museum (1904 Canton Avenue, Milton, 617-333-0690).

Hills hint
While camping is generally not allowed in Blue Hills, there is a loophole. The Appalachian Mountain Club (outdoors.org) runs Ponkapoag Camp, where 22 cabins and two tent sites are available for weeklong getaways during the summer, and overnights and weekends other times of the year. The accommodations aren’t fancy, but they are

well priced and afford a “rustic retreat for people who want to get away from it all,” says Roger Scholl of the AMC.

Golf

Squeeze in a quick nine or play 18 or 36 holes at the DCR-run Ponkapoag Golf Course (2167 Washington Street, Canton, 781-828-4242, ponkapoaggolf.com). Designed by Donald Ross and built in 1936, the course is reasonably priced (just $25 for 18 holes on weekends) and has a driving range, two putting greens, and on-site lessons, should your swing happen to need a little work.

Hills hint

If you think your kid is the next Tiger Woods, sign him or her up for a three- or five-day golf camp through Ponkapoag’s Junior Golf Academy.

Winter Sports

There’s no need to abandon Blue Hills when golf season ends. During our cold winter months, try snowshoeing or cross-country skiing on the reservation’s trail network (a map is available at the reservation headquarters in Milton) and downhill skiing and snowboarding on Great Blue Hill at the Blue Hills Ski Area (4001 Washington Street, Canton, 781-828-5070, ski-bluehills.com). Nine trails and two terrain parks provide a decent mix of excitement. Or lace up your skates and go for a spin around one of Blue Hills’ two facilities:

Shea Rink (651 Willard Street, Quincy, 617-472-9325) and Ulin Rink (11 Unquity Road, Milton, 617-696-9869).

Hills hint

There might not be much snow in your backyard, but if the temperature outside is below freezing, it’s worth checking out the conditions at Blue Hills Ski Area, where snowmaking can cover up to 80 percent of the trails. Don’t be afraid of the dark, either, because

50 percent of the trails are lighted for nighttime skiing.

For more information about Blue Hills Reservation, visit mass.gov/dcr/parks/metroboston/blue.htm.

Christie Matheson is a regular contributor to the Globe Magazine. Send e-mails to magazine@globe.com