Go Figure

Sweet, succulent figs are in season now. Use them to prepare an appetizer, a main course, and two delicious desserts.

(Photograph by Jim Scherer; styling by Catrine Kelty) Grilled prosciutto-wrapped figs skewered on rosemary sprigs make elegant finger party food.

With all due respect to the city of Newton and its namesake cookie, I'll take my figs fresh during their summer season. Whether they're dark winey-purple or light yellowish-green, fresh figs have an incomparable syrupy, honeyed sweetness and a lush, velvety texture. When I buy them, they rarely survive long enough to find their way into cooked dishes; I generally scarf them down raw, perhaps with a bit of cheese - they pair well with anything from pungent goat cheese and nutty, salty Parmesan to tangy blues and mild-mannered mascarpone.

Given their soft flesh and delicate skin, cooking figs requires a gentle hand. They're quite good after a short stay on a hot grill, which both warms the flesh and intensifies the sugars, making them sweeter yet. Here, they match up with a salty prosciutto and fresh, piney rosemary, which accentuates the figs' own herbal notes. Grilled figs also bring together sweet, sour, and herbal elements in a vinaigrette to accompany grilled salmon.

GRILLED FIGS WITH PROSCIUTTO AND ROSEMARY
SERVES 6

9 woody rosemary sprigs, each about 5 inches long
9 fresh figs (about 3/4 pound), stems removed and halved lengthwise
9 large slices (about 1/2 pound) prosciutto, halved lengthwise

About an hour before grilling, strip the leaves off the bottom 2 inches of each rosemary sprig (reserve the leaves for another use) and submerge the sprigs in water. Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on high. Wrap each fig half in a piece of prosciutto, and skewer 2 of the wrapped fig halves onto each rosemary sprig.

If using a gas grill, adjust burners to medium-high. Arrange the skewers on the grill so that the figs are in the center and the exposed rosemary sprigs point toward the cooler outer edges. Grill, turning once, until figs are warmed through and the prosciutto is lightly grill-marked, about 4 minutes per side. Serve warm.

GRILLED SALMON WITH GRILLED FIG VINAIGRETTE
SERVES 6

If you don't have port, substitute 1 tablespoon of red wine mixed well with 1/2 teaspoon of honey. Leftover fig vinaigrette makes a fantastic topping for a salad of sliced fresh tomatoes with mozzarella, feta, or goat cheese. When you grill fish, make sure to preheat the grill grate and scrape it clean first.

1 large shallot, minced
1/4 cup chopped basil
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1 tablespoon port
3 tablespoons red wine
vinegar
Salt
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to brush figs Pepper
6 salmon fillets, each about 6 ounces and 1 1/2 inches thick, pinbones removed
9 fresh figs (about 3/4 pound), stems removed, halved lengthwise

In a large nonreactive bowl, mix the shallot, basil, parsley, port, vinegar, and 3/4 teaspoon of salt. Vigorously whisk in 6 tablespoons of olive oil, season with pepper to taste, and set aside.

Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on high. Sprinkle the salmon lightly with salt and pepper and brush the figs lightly with olive oil. If using a gas grill, adjust burners to medium-high. Grill the salmon until skin shrinks and flesh turns almost entirely opaque, about 6 minutes (flip the fragile fillets just once during grilling), and the figs until they are warmed through and lightly grill-marked all over, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the salmon to a serving platter.

Roughly chop the figs, add to the reserved vinaigrette, and mix vigorously to blend. Taste the vinaigrette and adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, or vinegar if necessary. Spoon a portion of the vinaigrette over each piece of salmon and serve at once.

MASCARPONE-STUFFED FIGS WITH RASPBERRIES
SERVES 6

If you're one to gild the lily, sprinkle the stuffed figs with a bit of grated chocolate before placing the raspberries.

1/2 pint fresh raspberries, washed and drained on paper towels
3 tablespoons sugar
Salt
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
9 fresh figs (about 3/4 pound), stems removed
3/4 cup mascarpone
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Reserve 18 firm, attractive raspberries. In a small, nonreactive saucepan, bring the remaining raspberries, 2 tablespoons of sugar, a tiny pinch of salt, the lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons of water to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture becomes syrupy, about 7 minutes. Strain the raspberry mixture and set aside.

Cut each fig in half lengthwise and, if necessary, cut very thin slivers off the bottom of each half so it will sit upright. Use a small melon baller to scoop out and reserve the center of each fig half, leaving enough flesh on the sides so the halves retain their structural integrity. In a small bowl, mix the fig centers, mascarpone, vanilla, the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar, and a tiny pinch of salt until uniform. Up to 1 hour before serving, fill each fig half with a scant tablespoon of the fig cream, top with one of the reserved raspberries, drizzle with raspberry syrup, and serve at once.

Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com.