Beyond Basic BLTs

Summer's splendid tomatoes, varied lettuces, and a host of other off-the-wall ingredients can make for pretty spectacular sandwiches.

(Photograph by Jim Scherer; styling by Catrine Kelty) Rich avocado and spicy radish slices dress up a BLT.

Tomato time is upon us, and a BLT is the perfect celebration. With ripe, local summer tomatoes and carefully chosen bacon, bread, and lettuce - and maybe a flavor fillip or two - a big, drippy BLT is about as good as it gets.

These are my BLT tenets. First, go for great ingredients - high-quality bacon (I love Niman Ranch, available at Trader Joe's), fresh lettuce, and hearty, artisan-baked bread. The tomatoes, of course, should be sourced from the farmer's market or your own garden, if possible. Red "field" tomatoes are the standard, but heirloom varieties in other colors will surely delight as well. Second, prep the ingredients to your taste. Whether you like your bread toasted dark or light or your bacon crisp is not for me to say. What I can say is, pay attention to these details, because having the bread and bacon just the way you like it can mean the difference between a good BLT and a great one. Third, be generous. I squeeze three tomato slices and four bacon slices onto each sandwich, for which I favor thick, hand-cut slices of bread. Last, mayonnaise is the key condiment for flavor, sensation, and structure. Spread some on both slices of bread, and lay the tomatoes on one of them. The silky interplay of mayo and tomato is a treat within a treat.

BASIC BLTS
MAKES 4 SANDWICHES

8 slices (about 1/2 inch thick) from 1 loaf hearty Pullman, country, French, or Italian bread
1/2 cup mayonnaise
16 slices (from 1 pound) high-quality bacon
2 medium ripe tomatoes Pepper
4 hefty leaves romaine

Toast the bread to the desired doneness, and spread about 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise evenly over each slice. Working in batches if necessary, in a heavy skillet over medium heat, cook the bacon, turning as needed, to the desired doneness. Drain. Cut each tomato into 6 slices.

To assemble each sandwich, fan 3 slices of tomato over the mayonnaise on 1 slice of bread. Season to taste with pepper and top the tomato slices with 4 slices of bacon, 1 romaine leaf, and the other slice of bread. Press lightly to compact the sandwich, cut in half, if desired, and serve at once.

BLTS WITH AVOCADO, RADISH CHIPS, AND LEMON MAYO
MAKES 4 SANDWICHES

Basic BLTs recipe (try using peppery arugula instead of the romaine)
1 teaspoon finely grated zest and 1 tablespoon juice from 1 lemon
1 ripe Haas avocado, peeled and sliced
6 large radishes, thinly sliced

Follow the Basic BLTs recipe, making these changes: In a small bowl, mix the lemon zest and juice and mayonnaise well before spreading on the bread. When assembling the sandwiches, place avocado slices on the second mayonnaise-topped slice of bread, mash the avocado gently, cover with radish slices, and press gently into the avocado. Then continue as directed.

BLTS WITH CRAB AND SCALLION-LIME MAYO
MAKES 4 SANDWICHES

Basic BLTs recipe
1 teaspoon finely grated zest and 1 tablespoon juice from 1 lime
4 large scallions, minced
8 ounces crab meat

Follow the Basic BLTs recipe, making these changes: In a small bowl, mix the lime zest and juice, scallions, and mayonnaise well before spreading on the bread. Place about 2 ounces of crab meat on top of the tomato slices when assembling the sandwiches, then continue as directed.

BLTS WITH SMOKED TROUT AND CAPER MAYO
MAKES 4 SANDWICHES

Basic BLTs recipe
1/4 cup capers, minced
8 ounces smoked trout

Follow the Basic BLTs recipe, making these changes: In a small bowl, mix the capers and mayonnaise well before spreading on the bread. Place about 2 ounces of smoked trout on top of the tomato slices when assembling the sandwiches, then continue as directed.

BLTS WITH GRILLED
MUSHROOMS AND ONIONS AND CHIPOTLE MAYO
MAKES 4 SANDWICHES

Basic BLTs recipe
2 medium onions, cut horizontally into 3/4-inch-thick slices
4 medium portobello mushrooms, cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 medium chipotle chili, minced, plus 1 teaspoon adobo sauce

Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on high. Push a wood or metal skewer all the way through the circumference of each onion slice. Brush the mushroom and onion slices with olive oil, and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. If using a gas grill, adjust burners to medium-high. Grill mushrooms and onions until tender and well browned, turning as necessary, 8 to 10 minutes for the mushrooms and 12 to 14 minutes for the onions.

Then follow the Basic BLTs recipe, making these changes: In a small bowl, mix the chipotle, adobo sauce, and mayonnaise well before spreading on the bread. Place the mushroom and onion slices on top of the tomato slices when assembling the sandwiches, then continue as directed.

Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com.