Dressed for Success

Fight off vinaigrette fatigue with bold, creamy homemade salad dressings.

(Photograph by Jim Scherer; styling by Catrine Kelty) Dressings, clockwise from top left, Italian, feta-lemon, tomato-bacon, double mustard and green goddess.

When it comes to dressing a salad, my usual motto is "Vive la vinaigrette." But sometimes I want more complexity, or richness, or bolder flavors. That's when I whip up, quite literally, a batch of creamy salad dressing.

Not all salad greens are well suited to a thick dressing. Steer clear of mesclun and other baby or tender lettuces such as Boston or bibb. Instead, favor the sturdier stuff : Romaine, escarole, chicory, curly endive, spinach, or even old faithful iceberg. Right out of the fridge these dressings are thick enough to stand up as a dips for carrot sticks or chips as well. Bring them to room temperature, though, for salad duty.

CREAMY DOUBLE-MUSTARD DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

1 medium shallot, minced
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
1/2 cup creme fraiche or thick yogurt
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
Salt and pepper

In a blender or food processor, process half the minced shallot and the Dijon mustard, thyme, and vinegar to a smooth puree, stopping to scrape down sides as necessary. Add the creme fraiche or yogurt and pulse to combine. With the motor running, very slowly add the oil and process until dressing is thick and emulsified, stopping to scrape down blender or processor once if necessary. Add the remaining shallot and whole-grain mustard and pulse to combine. Scrape the dressing into a small bowl, stir to mix, and set aside for about an hour to blend flavors. Before serving, season with 1/2 teaspoon of salt and pepper to taste, and stir to mix.

CREAMY ITALIAN DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

3 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1 1/2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
1/4 cup sour cream
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons minced fresh basil
Salt and pepper

In a blender or food processor, process the Parmesan, garlic, oregano, scallions, and vinegar to a smooth puree, stopping to scrape down sides as necessary. Add the sour cream and mayonnaise and pulse to combine. With the motor running, very slowly add the oil and process until dressing is thick and emulsified, stopping to scrape down blender or processor once if necessary. Add the basil and pulse to combine. Scrape the dressing into a small bowl, stir to mix, and set aside for about an hour to blend flavors. Before serving, season with 1/2 teaspoon of salt and pepper to taste, and stir to mix.

GREEN GODDESS DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

1/2 cup packed parsley leaves
1/2 cup packed watercress leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
2 anchovy fillets, minced
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

In a blender or food processor, process the parsley, watercress, tarragon, scallions, garlic, anchovy, and lemon juice to a smooth puree, stopping to scrape down sides as necessary. Add the mayonnaise and pulse to combine. With the motor running, very slowly add the oil and process until dressing is thick and emulsified, stopping to scrape down blender or processor once if necessary. Scrape the dressing into a small bowl and set aside for about an hour to blend flavors. Before serving, season with 1/2 teaspoon of salt and pepper to taste, and stir to mix.

CREAMY FETA-LEMON DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

1/2 teaspoon finely grated zest and 1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed juice from 1 lemon
1 medium garlic clove, minced or pressed
2/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon mixed minced fresh herbs such as parsley, dill, basil, chives, and mint Salt and pepper

In a blender or food processor, process the lemon zest and juice, garlic, feta, and cream to a smooth puree, stopping to scrape down sides as necessary. With the motor running, very slowly add the oil and process until dressing is thick and emulsified, stopping to scrape down blender or processor once if necessary. Add the herbs and pulse to combine. Scrape the dressing into a small bowl and set aside for about an hour to blend flavors. Before serving, season with salt and pepper to taste, and stir to mix.

CREAMY CHARRED TOMATO, BACON, AND ROSEMARY DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

You can cook the bacon on the grill alongside the tomatoes if you wish, but the dripping fat will cause the fire to flare, so take care.

2 medium ripe plum or Roma tomatoes, cored and halved lengthwise
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to brush tomatoes
Salt and pepper
3 slices bacon, cooked, drained, and chopped
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 1/2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
3 tablespoons heavy cream

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on high. Brush the tomatoes with olive oil, and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Grill tomatoes until heated through and well grill-marked, about 6 minutes per side (turn only once - they're fragile). Cool the tomatoes to room temperature.

In a blender or food processor, process the tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, vinegar, and cream to a smooth puree, stopping to scrape down sides as necessary. With the motor running, very slowly add 1/3 cup of oil and process until the dressing is thick and emulsified, stopping to scrape down blender or processor once if necessary. Add the bacon and pulse to combine. Scrape the dressing into a small bowl and set aside for about an hour to blend flavors. Before serving, season with salt and pepper to taste, and stir to mix.

Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com.