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FIRST PERSON

Sew Stopper

Sam Mendoza, 22, was a junior at Boston University when he blew away local boutiques with his collection of hand-sewn frocks.

I've been noticing more and more feathers on runways lately. What trends are you into?

I have a new fascination with pants. Right now the volumes, fabrics, techniques, and silhouettes are so fresh. I think it's a sign of a new relationship being created between femininity and power. And an interesting step in the continuing blend of the male and female wardrobes.

Are you always trying to capture the latest trends in your clothes?

Well, I try to be informed about everything that goes on in and around fashion, but I'm careful not to copy or follow the trends; I absorb it to translate it.

So whose work are you trying to translate these days?

Work by Nicholas Ghesquiere, Alber Elbaz, and Stefano Pilati. I love them because they're creating fashion, not following it.

I've actually been waking up at night thinking about Elbaz's little black dress collection for French couture house Lanvin. But I'm not sure I could pull off the big-bow stuff he's done. Any ideas for fall that you're on the fence about?

I'm keeping an eye on solid-color dressing. But I don't think it will - or should - stick. Head-to-toe fuchsia may not be so cool on the B Line.

Is there a look you definitely know you want to avoid?

Coming off like you've tried too hard is the worst.

What about a more specific fashion pet peeve? Mine, for example, is underwear lines. Oh, and enough trucker hats already.

Shoes! People are constantly making mistakes with shoes. Wearing a proper sandal instead of a flip-flop changes a look for the better.

You'll show your latest creations for your label, Mendoza, during Boston Fashion Week. Any hints?

I was in India for over three weeks in the winter and it became my central inspiration for the new collection. I've focused on the streets there. The liveliness, color, music, and sensuality. I brought back a separate suitcase stuff ed with fabrics.

How are your clothes received locally? Do people get it?

Definitely. They sell faster than I can sew new pieces. But I can also see that my style of construction takes a little getting used to. Raw edges, completely sheer dresses, and floor lengths all take some confidence.

So how come you aren't moving to New York? Or are you?

New York is just so overdone. It's a great city, but I just don't feel the need to be there right now. I'd rather be here with the people I love and admire. To me the woman walking down Tremont Street is much more important. 

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