The Big Chill

Before summer's end, go for the gazpacho, a sometimes pureed, sometimes chunky cold Spanish soup.

(Photo by Travis Dove) At Taberna de Haro, gazpacho is served with crusty bread for dunking.

GAZPACHO $7, Taberna de Haro

Having lived in Spain for eight years, chef Deborah Hansen prides herself on authentic gazpacho. The cold soup is a staple in that country, accompanied by crusty bread for dunking. Behold: a bracing puree of tomatoes, cucumber, green pepper, white vinegar, salt, and parsley - no muss, no fuss. Here, the straightforward flavors speak for themselves. Bonus points for presentation: The soup arrived at our table perfectly chilled in a simple little crock with just a teensy hint of pulpiness. We used our bread to sop up every last drop. Bottom line Less is more. This gazpacho will delight purists.

CHIPOTLE GAZPACHO $10, 51 Lincoln

Chef Jeff Fournier plays fast and loose with his gazpachos, enhancing the tomato base with twists like cantaloupe or chipotle peppers. "At heart, gazpacho is just a cold soup, based on a fruit, that's fairly acidic," he says. This riff on the classic boasted a zippy little kick, accentuated by garlic and a splash of champagne vinegar. The color was mellow orange; the texture, sublimely smooth. Bottom line A bold version ideal for adventurous palates.

SHRIMP GAZPACHO $8, Vinalia

Vinalia's gazpacho resembles salsa more than soup, with hefty chunks of tomato off set by flecks of carrots, basil, and red bell pepper. In a nod to summertime, chef Patrick Doyle added shrimp to the mix. Tragedy! The turgid little prawns waded helplessly in too little tomato juice. Rescuing them proved unrewarding - tastewise, they were far outshone by the fruits and veggies. Refreshing to be sure, though we'd opt for this liquid salad sans seafood next time. Bottom line A hearty version well suited to bigger appetites; hold the shrimp.

TABERNA DE HARO 999 Beacon Street, Brookline, 617-277-8272, tabernaboston.com

51 LINCOLN 51 Lincoln Street, Newton, 617-965-3100, 51lincolnnewton.com

VINALIA 34 Summer Street, Boston, 617-737-1777, vinaliaboston.com

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