Ice Cool

At the edge of the Arctic Circle, the natural beauty of Reykjavik, Iceland, will make you sweat.

(visitreykjavik.is) The Blue Lagoon.

I'm sitting in a "hot pot" at 11 p.m., with the sun still visible above the cliffs that ring one of Ice- land's many fiords, and it occurs to me that this is one of the warmest countries I've ever visited, despite its location at the edge of the Arctic Circle. Not just for the geothermal energy that heats most homes and hot pots (Icelandic slang for hot tub), but for the people. I make fast friends with the four enjoying the view with me. We discover one of them is the cousin of a shark farmer I had met earlier in the day. Even the nation's phone book (yes, one for the whole country) reflects that friendly spirit - it's organized by first name. (Icelandic surnames are based on the father's given name, so they change with each generation.)

Iceland offers an interesting juxtaposition between the sophistication of Reykjavik, its capital city (where two-thirds of the country's 300,000 residents live), and the wildness of its rural outposts (where sheep outnumber people). Reykjavik has a reputation for weekend club hopping, where revelers stay out until the wee hours, and for its thriving music scene, which gave rise to Bjork, the nation's most famous export. Local designers create haute couture clothing and jewelry and show off their work at boutiques on two main drags downtown. (Both are worth exploring.)

Outside the city, there's much to see, so rent a car. Several hours away in multiple directions, glaciers cap the mountains, and in the summer months (when temperatures hover in the 60s and 70s), it's possible to go on overnight dog-sledding adventures. Within just an hour's drive, other natural wonders abound: fiords; an active geyser - to which you can get quite close; a thundering waterfall that rivals Niagara; fields of lava that look like the blackened surface of a moon.

Hot springs pop up everywhere; the most famous is the Blue Lagoon (bluelagoon.com), a must-do for all ages, about 30 minutes from the city. Carved into one of the lava fields, the man-made lagoon, possibly the world's largest outdoor spa, is hot and steamy and a surprising milky blue. Scoop white silica mud into your palms to spread over your skin for its reported benefits. If you visit between September and April, the lagoon is open until 8 p.m. and is a good spot from which to view the aurora borealis.

During the summer, when daylight can last all night, you'll see the midnight sun, not nearly as dramatic as the aurora but remarkable just the same. The upside of all that light? You won't have any trouble keeping up with the clubbing scene when it stays sunny that late.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

Fly Icelandair to Reykjavik direct in about five hours; renting a car is recommended. While Iceland is cheaper than the rest of Europe, it's an island nation, and prices can be high. Daylight gradually decreases from about 24 hours during the summer solstice to just about four hours during the winter solstice (plane fares decrease as well). The bonus of visiting in winter is that the longer and clearer the night, the more likely your chance of seeing the northern lights.

EAT

Located at the Blue Lagoon, the high-end Lava Restaurant (354-420-8806; bluelagoon.com/restaurantsconferences/lava-restaurant/) is carved into the lava rock, and has soaring ceilings and dramatic views of the lagoon. In downtown Reykjavik, the 3 Frakkar (354-552-3939; 3frakkar.com) has a way with Icelandic specialties (whale meat and seabird) as well as fresh-caught fish - ocean catfish to halibut to cod.

SLEEP

The Hotel Reykjavik Centrum (354-514-6000; hotelcentrum.is), in the city center, has modern, deluxe rooms, with rates ranging from about $216 to $335 per night. During construction, workers discovered the remains of one of the country's earliest Viking settlements. If you're exploring the western coast, try the similarly priced Hotel Glymur (354-430-3100; hotelglymur.is), about 45 minutes north of Reykjavik. Perched on a hillside, this boutique hotel overlooks a beautiful fiord and has two outdoor "hot pots."

DON'T MISS

Horseback riding through lava fields on an Icelandic horse. Beginners will enjoy this, especially since Icelandic horses are smaller than the typical horse, and they are among the purest breeds in the world. Ishestar Riding Centre, 354-555-7000; ishestar.is.

Janice O'Leary