We'll Always Have Montreal

One family's foodie tour of that other city of lights.

(Photograph by Carrie Macpherson) Biking the Lachine Canal.

`This is the winner," said my 12-year-old son, Jake, as he tasted a slice of semisoft Pied de Vent cheese from Quebec's Magdalen Islands. We had already grabbed a chunk of the brielike Riopelle from the cheese shop for our picnic lunch. My daughter, Melanie, 10, was sampling extra-large juicy blackberries.

Nothing excites my kids more than a large food market, especially one with a French bent, like the Marche Atwater in Montreal's Westmount neighborhood. We had just rented bikes in Old Montreal and pedaled 25 minutes on a path along the Lachine Canal, and now the kids were running from stall to stall, amazed at the bounty of goods before us. There was the boulangerie selling fresh-baked baguettes, the boucherie selling assorted pates, baskets overflowing with berries, a fromagerie with a selection of Quebec cheeses that could make my boy weep. We had come to Montreal to stroll the cobble- stone streets of the Old Quarter and visit family-friendly sites, but with its French roots, Montreal is certainly one of the best cities for experiencing culinary delights, especially when you're leading a family of foodies.

We started our trip on the terrace of the city's beloved creperie, Jardin Nelson. Inside the brick facade off popular Place Jacques Cartier, a pianist and bassist played as we dined on the chef's sweet and savory concoctions. Jake gave me the thumbs up as he scarfed down the Basilico, a crepe stuffed with chicken Parmesan. Afterward, we walked around the narrow streets, shopping at the many boutiques selling French-country wares. We were already looking forward to dinner.

As soon as we grabbed a table at L'Express, a classic French bistro in the Plateau District, a waiter came over with a jar of cornichons, a pair of tongs, and some creamy mustard for dipping. After one bite of her croquemonsieur (ham and cheese), Melanie declared it the best sandwich she'd ever had, while Jake devoured his steak frites. My soupe de poisson was served with the large spoon one normally finds on the other side of the Atlantic.

We couldn't leave without tasting one of Montreal's best known creations, the St-Viateur bagel, which is boiled, sweetened with honey, and cooked in a large oven, resulting in a smaller, crispier version of a New York bagel. So we sat down at St-Viateur Bagel & Cafe for a breakfast of bagels and lox, washed down with a cafe au lait.

Since we felt like we should do something other than eat - but why, really? - we visited the Insectarium (museumsnature.ca) to find tarantulas, scorpions, and a massive flying beetle that thankfully lives far away, in Cameroon. At the gift shop, visitors can try barbecued mealworms, which the man in front of me said "taste like pretzels." But this is the one dish that Melanie and Jake skipped.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

Air Canada and United fly direct to Montreal in a little over an hour. Don't visit if you're looking for a bargain; costs of hotels and restaurants are on par with any large American city. However, it would cost much more to travel as well in France, where the dollar is weak. No need to rent a car; this is a city made for walking.

EAT

Sample crepes at the moderately priced Jardin Nelson, which has lovely greenery inside and out (514-861-5731; jardinnelson.com). Expect to pay about $22 an entree at L'Express (514-845-5333), a charming and authentic French bistro. For a taste of Montreal's famed bagels, visit St-Viateur Bagel & Cafe (514-528-6361; stviateurbagel.com).

SLEEP

Spacious rooms and a rooftop pool make Square Phillips Hotel and Suites (514-393-1193; squarephillips.com) a good choice, starting at about $137, with continental breakfast. If you want to splurge, try the stylish Hotel St-Paul (514-380-2222; hotelstpaul.com) in the heart of Old Montreal. Suites come with funky, ultramodern furnishings and two-person baths for weary parents. Rooms with two beds start at about $270.

DON'T MISS

Labyrinthe du Hangar 16 (514-499-0099; labyrintheduhangar16.com), a whimsical maze where you walk through plastic mesh and over bridges and slide through tubes as you try to find your way to the end. It costs about $40 for a family of four. Kids will also enjoy smelling and touching the plants at the Courtyard of the Senses inside the Montreal Botanical Garden (514-872-1400; museumsnature.ca). Admission, which includes access to the Insectarium, is about $16 for adults, $8 for children ages 5 to 17 (through October 31, then rates are reduced).

Stephen Jermanok