Pasta's Dark Side
By toasting pasta before cooking it, you can add a lot of flavor.
Dried pasta is so simple, so perfect, that you wouldn't imagine much could be done to improve it. Yet in Spain, Mexico, the Middle East, and even parts of Italy, cooks toast dry pasta before cooking it in liquid to intensify its flavor, accentuating the taste of the grain from which it is made. Fiduea is a Spanish (Catalan, to be precise) noodle dish that can be similar to seafood paella, with the toasted noodles in place of the rice. The version here, made with sausage and mushrooms, is simpler and humbler than seafood fiduea. In Mexico, sopa seca, which translates to "dry soup," is served - as pasta is often served in Italy - in a small portion before a main course or in a larger portion as a main course. (You can also make a brothy version, in which case the sopa is no longer seca; it is sopa de fideos.)
FIDUEA WITH CHORIZO AND MUSHROOMS
SERVES 6
Take note: I'm serious when I say use a "very large" skillet here - choose one that is at least 12 inches across.
4 slices (about 4 ounces) bacon, cut into thin strips
3/4 pound chorizo or other garlic sausage, quartered lengthwise and cut into
1/4-inch pieces
2 medium onions, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 teaspoons sweet paprika
10 ounces crimini mushrooms (also called Baby Bella), cleaned and sliced Salt and pepper
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 1/2 cups homemade or packaged low-sodium chicken broth
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes
3/4 pound fideos, vermicelli, or angel hair pasta, toasted
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, for sprinkling
With an oven rack in the middle position, heat the oven to 450 degrees. In a very large ovenproof skillet or straight-sided saute pan set over medium heat, fry the bacon, stirring frequently, until rendered and crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove the bacon to paper towels to drain and pour off all but about 11/2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the chorizo to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Remove the chorizo to the paper towels with the bacon, leaving the rest of the fat in the pan.
Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and paprika and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 40 seconds. Add the mushrooms, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste, stir to coat, and cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid from the mushrooms has all evaporated, about 9 minutes. Add the wine and allow it to simmer, scraping any bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, for about 2 minutes. Add the broth, tomatoes, and 1 teaspoon of salt, bring to a strong simmer, and simmer about 5 minutes. Add the toasted pasta, bacon, and chorizo and cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta is almost tender, about 6 minutes. Taste the pasta and sauce and adjust the seasoning with additional salt and pepper, if necessary. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until the liquid is absorbed and pasta is golden and crusty, about 20 minutes. Use oven mitts to remove the blazing hot skillet from the oven, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve at once.
SOPA SECA DE FIDEOS CON CHILI CHIPOTLE
SERVES 6
If need be, substitute Parmesan or Romano cheese for queso anejo.
5 large, ripe tomatoes (about 2 1/2 pounds), cored, halved, and seeded
1 large onion, cut into 4 or 6 wedges
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 chipotle chilies in adobo, or more, to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves Salt
2 1/2 cups homemade or packaged low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
3/4 pound fideos, vermicelli, or angel hair pasta, toasted
1 pound fresh spinach or Swiss chard, stemmed and roughly chopped
3/4 cup grated queso anejo cheese, plus extra to pass at table
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
1 medium avocado, peeled and sliced, for garnish
1 lime, cut into 6 wedges, for garnish
With an oven rack in the middle position, heat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a large (18 inch by 13 inch) rimmed baking sheet with parchment. On the lined sheet, toss 6 of the tomato halves, the onion wedges, and garlic cloves with 2 tablespoons of the oil to coat, then arrange cut sides down. Roast until tomato skins begin to shrivel and brown, about 35 minutes, then remove from oven and cool on baking sheet for 10 minutes. Remove the tomato skins, scrape the vegetables and juices into a food processor or blender, add the chipotle chilies, oregano, cloves, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Puree and set aside (you will have about 2 1/2 cups of puree).
In a large Dutch oven or soup pot set over medium-high heat, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil until shimmering. Add the tomato puree and cook until moisture evaporates and the mixture thickens and darkens, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, roughly chop the remaining tomatoes; add them, the broth, and another 1 teaspoon of salt to the pot and stir to mix, and bring to a strong simmer. Add the toasted pasta and cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta just starts to bend, about 3 minutes. Add the spinach or chard, stir to combine, reduce the heat to medium, cover pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the noodles are tender, about 6 minutes longer. Add the cheese, stir to combine, taste the dish and adjust seasoning with more salt, if desired. Serve at once, allowing diners to garnish their portions with extra cheese, cilantro, avocado slices, and lime.
+ ONLINE
boston.com/magazine
BONUS RECIPE
Toasted Orzo Pilaf With Chickpeas, Lentils, and Caramelized Onions
Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com. 