Roundup
Imaginative Boston chefs roll out new takes on the meatball.
- |
Most people don't expect much from their meatballs -- if they'll fill a sub roll or top some spaghetti, you're good to go. But not Dante de Magistris, the chef/owner of Restaurant Dante in Cambridge, who issued an invitation to Boston-area chefs to gather and show off their most imaginative meatball recipes. From chefs Brooke Vosika and William Kovel at the Four Seasons Hotel Boston and its Aujourd'hui came crisp, crunchy (thanks to water chestnuts) appetizer-sized chicken meatballs. Executive chef Tom Berry of Temple Bar in Cambridge placed with retro-style Fiesta Balls, bathed in a Velveeta sauce and updated with the herbal tang of chimichurri. De Magistris himself offered Italian polpette, but switched eggplant for the typical ground meat and added cubes of mozzarella to the center of each "meat" ball.
Spiced Chicken and Water-Chestnut Meatballs
Makes 26 to 30 1¼-inch meatballs
From Brooke Vosika, executive chef of the Four Seasons Hotel Boston, and William Kovel, chef de cuisine at Aujourd'hui.
2¼ cups panko bread crumbs
1 pound ground white-meat chicken
1 can (8 ounces) water chestnuts, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon Asian toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon Thai green chili paste
Salt and pepper
2½ cups canola oil
In a shallow dish such as a pie plate, reserve ¾ cup of the panko. In a large mixing bowl, mix chicken, water chestnuts, garlic, ginger, scallions, sesame oil, chili paste, 1 teaspoon of salt, ½ teaspoon of pepper, and the remaining 1½ cups of panko until uniform. With wet hands, form the mixture into 26 to 30 meatballs about 1¼ inches in diameter. Roll the meatballs in the reserved panko to coat each.
Set the oven rack in the middle position and heat the oven to 325 degrees. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat canola oil until it registers 350 degrees on a deep-fry or instant-read thermometer. Carefully add about half of the meatballs and fry until deep golden brown all over, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Allow oil to return to 350 degrees and fry and drain the remaining meatballs. Transfer the meatballs to a rimmed baking sheet, and bake until they are cooked through (160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer), about 7 minutes. Transfer to serving platter and serve hot or warm.
Fiesta Balls With Cheese Sauce and Chimichurri
Makes 20 to 25 1½-inch meatballs
From executive chef Tom Berry of Temple Bar in Cambridge.
MEATBALLS
2 large poblano peppers (about 8 ounces total)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium-large onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
3 garlic cloves, minced (about 1 tablespoon)
1 pound ground beef, preferably 80 percent lean
½ cup panko bread crumbs
3 ounces mild cheddar cheese, grated (about 1 cup)
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt and black pepper
CHIMICHURRI AND CHEESE SAUCE
3½ cups loosely packed fresh Italian parsley
1 cup loosely packed fresh oregano leaves
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons juice from 1 or 2 limes
1 tablespoon white vinegar
Salt
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup milk, preferably whole
8 ounces Velveeta cheese, cut into rough 1½-inch pieces
Set the oven rack 6 inches beneath the element and heat the broiler. Place the poblanos on a baking sheet and broil, turning frequently, until they are charred all over. Transfer the hot poblanos to a paper bag and seal to trap the steam, which will loosen the skins; rub off the charred skin, then seed and finely chop the poblanos (you will have about 2/3 cup). Meanwhile, in a medium skillet over medium heat, heat the butter until it stops foaming. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent, about 6 minutes. Off heat, cool the onion mixture. In a large bowl, place the poblanos, onion mixture, ground beef, panko, cheddar, eggs, cumin, 1½ teaspoons of salt, and ¾ teaspoon of black pepper and mix until very well blended.
Set the oven rack in the middle position and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously coat a rimmed baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. Using your hands, form the ground-beef mixture into 20 to 25 meatballs about 1½ inches in diameter and place them on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until the meatballs are firm and cooked through, about 25 minutes, gently turning them halfway through the cooking time.
Meanwhile place the parsley, oregano, garlic, lime juice, vinegar, and 1 teaspoon of salt in a food processor and puree, stopping to scrape down the inside of the work bowl. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil, stopping to scrape down the inside of the work bowl, until very well blended. Scrape the chimichurri into a small serving bowl and set aside.
In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat the milk until it just begins to steam, about 4 minutes. Add the Velveeta and continue heating, whisking occasionally, until cheese melts and the sauce is smooth. Add meatballs, toss gently to coat, and serve at once, passing the chimichurri separately.
Mozzarella-Stuffed Eggplant Polpette
Makes 24 2-inch meatballs
From chef/owner Dante de Magistris of Restaurant Dante in Cambridge.
1 small eggplant (about 1¼ pounds)
1 cup ricotta cheese
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
½ cup freshly grated pecorino Romano
2 cups bread crumbs
2 cloves garlic, minced
2½ teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
4 large eggs
Salt and black pepper
24 ¾-inch cubes from ½ pound low-moisture mozzarella
2½ cups olive oil
3 cups homemade or store-bought marinara sauce
3 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly toasted
Set the oven rack in the middle position and heat the oven to 425 degrees. Poke the eggplant once or twice with a fork. Place on a baking sheet and roast until tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Cool the eggplant and chop into 8 or 10 pieces. In a food processor, puree the eggplant, ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano, pecorino, bread crumbs, garlic, red pepper, basil, 6 tablespoons of parsley, eggs, 1½ teaspoons of salt, and 1 teaspoon of pepper until uniform. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour.
Set the oven rack in the middle position and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Using your hands, form the eggplant mixture into 24 2-inch balls, each one around a cube of mozzarella. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it registers 350 degrees on a deep-fry or instant-read thermometer. Reduce the heat to medium, carefully add about half the polpette, and fry until deep golden brown all over, about 3½ minutes. Remove the polpette to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Allow oil to return to 350 degrees and fry and drain the remaining polpette.
Transfer the polpette to a large baking dish, pour the marinara sauce evenly over them, cover the dish with foil, and bake until the polpette are heated through and the mozzarella inside is hot, about 30 minutes. Remove foil, sprinkle with pine nuts and remaining parsley, and serve at once.
Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com.![]()


