With the rare exception, the burger world can be neatly divided into two categories: East Coast vs. West Coast.
Essentially, it comes down to the grill vs. the griddle. The East, home of pub food, cold weather, and Irish bars, has its flame-kissed, charred-on-the-outside-red-in-the-middle half-pound behemoths. The West, cradle of car culture and fast-food restaurants, boasts the thin, seared grease bombs that value a crispy, well-caramelized crust above all and rely on gooey cheese and mayo-based sauces to add juiciness to the mix. Until recently, a decent West Coast-style burger was impossible to find in the Boston area. But like many cities nationwide, we're in the midst of a burger renaissance, and the past three years have seen a slew of high-quality West Coast-style joints springing up. These arrivals have set the stage for a single-city East-West showdown.
Adjustable waistband and notebook in tow, I set out on a beef binge: 10 burgers in one day to determine which coast could boast the most.
J. Kenji Alt is an associate editor for Cook's Illustrated magazine. Send comments to magazine@globe.com.
As near perfect a West Coast burger experience as Boston has to offer, Flat Patties comes closest to the benchmark set by California's In-N-Out Burger. The patty has massive beef flavor, is loaded with juicy fat, and features a squishy and wide bun that fits the meat like a glove. In line with their moniker, the well-seasoned meat is pressed flat on the griddle, delivering maximum crust formation, and comes with a sweet and tangy sauce. Add in that it's the cheapest burger of the lot, and you've achieved beef nirvana. Cheeseburger, $3.90. 81 Mount Auburn Street (in The Garage), Cambridge, 617-871-6871
UBurger, Boston (6) A little rubbery, but its solid, salty crust and big flavor play well against the extra-tangy pickles and special sauce. Ucheeseburger, $4.29. 636 Beacon Street, Boston, 617-536-0448; 1022 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, 617-487-4855; uburgerboston.com
Five Guys (7) A terrific West Coast patty from a Washington, D.C., chain. All of the toppings, everything from grilled onions to fresh green peppers, are free. Cheeseburger, $5.09 and $5.19. 170 Providence Highway, Dedham, 781-326-1158; Patriot Place, Foxborough, 508-203-9441; fiveguys.com
Four Burger (9) Nice crust and impeccably fresh ingredients, but a lack of beef flavor and undetectable levels of salt and pepper plagued this pretty-looking patty. "Brandt Farm" Hamburger, $7. 704 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, 617-441-5444; fourburgers.com
Franky N the Boys (10) The restaurant has a nice retro feel, but it made the ultimate burger no-no here: The cook gave the meat a final smash before bunning it, and the juiceless patty didn't stand a chance against the crusty kaiser roll. Cheeseburger, $4.99. 284 Washington Street, Brookline, 617-739-7371
Perfect pair: Nothing complements the salty, savory crust of a griddled burger like a sweet and tangy mayo-based sauce.
Flat makes sharp: Pressing the patty down when it first hits the griddle creates a crispy, caramelized crust.
Done deal: Forget rare. A griddled burger has a thin patty that cooks in its own fat, keeping it juicy even when it's no longer pink.
The east: Middlesex Lounge
Whether its juice comes from the beef itself or the handful of bacon that tops it, this is by far the chin-drippingest 9 ounces of coarse-ground chuck I've ever had. The thin, flavorful crust is free of the leatherlike quality that frequently plagues East Coast offerings. As for the bun, I normally shun burgers that use fancy-pants bread like ciabatta, but anything less robust here would have been a soggy mess. Burger, $7.25. 315 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, 617-868-6739; middlesexlounge.us
The runners up: Craigie on Main (3) Three cuts of meat and two types of fat give this thoughtfully crafted patty the most balanced flavor. Technically it's not grilled, but its fierce char nudges it over to the East Coast side. The Best Burger, $18. 853 Main Street, Cambridge, 617-497-5511; craigieonmain.com
Radius (4) The center was mushy, but a stack of deep-fried onions, a thick slab of cheddar, and a jolt of creamy horseradish sauce more than compensated. Signature Burger, $19. 8 High Street, Boston, 617-426-1234; radiusrestaurant.com
Eastern Standard (5) The exterior is leathery, but the center is just right. Where else can you pair a perfectly seasoned patty and top-notch fries with an impeccably mixed Red Hook? Standard Burger, $13. 528 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, 617-532-9100; easternstandardboston.com
R.F. O'Sullivan & Son (8) The heavy smokiness simply overwhelms the flavor of this half-pound pub-style burger, formed from extra-lean ground sirloin. Cheeseburger, $7.95. 282 Beacon Street, Somerville, 617-491-9638; rf-osullivan.com
Pile it on: The hefty East Coast burger can handle a sizable stack of toppings without getting lost in the mix.
Fire power: Grilling over an open flame has a tendency to dry out the edges, but you also get a smoky flavor you typically can't get from a griddle.
Keeping it together: A bun that's too soft can't stand up to an inch-thick half-pound patty. But too firm, and you get burger "backslide."
The verdict: Despite a surprise victory by a West Coast-style joint, the grilled pub-style burger continues to dominate the scene.
© Copyright 2009 Globe Newspaper Company.
FLAT PATTIES Overall Winner
