Easy eggplant

The cuisines of most Mediterranean and Middle East countries include some type of eggplant salad. The purple orb is usually grilled or roasted, mashed or pureed, and seasoned with olive oil and lemon, at a minimum. In this most basic form, the dish is often called “peasant caviar,” presumably because after grilling or roasting, this pedestrian vegetable assumes a rich, lush -- patrician, if you will -- texture.

While you can certainly cook the eggplant in the oven or on a gas grill, grilling it over charcoal infuses the flesh with a delectable smoky flavor that transforms these simple dishes into something really special. Best served at room temperature or lightly chilled, eggplant purees can fill many roles -- appetizer dip for toasted pita or fresh vegetables, anchor of a meze platter, relish to dress up simply cooked meat or fish, or hearty vegetable side dish. I like garlicky eggplant purees, but you can certainly reduce garlic quantities for tamer flavors, if you wish.

Grilled or Roasted Eggplant for PureeMakes about 2 cups

2½ pounds eggplant, poked several times with a fork

Prepare a charcoal grill (with bottom vents open). When coals are covered with gray ash, arrange them in an even layer, set the grate in place, cover, and let the grill heat for 5 minutes. For a gas grill, turn all the burners to high, close the lid, and heat for 15 minutes. Grill the eggplants over a hot fire until the skins are charred and the flesh is very soft and collapsed, about 30 minutes (less for tender Asian eggplants), turning them 2 or 3 times during cooking.

Alternatively, adjust the oven rack to the center position and heat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and roast the eggplants on it until the skins are wrinkled and the flesh is very soft and collapsed, 45 to 60 minutes (less for tender Asian eggplants), turning them 2 or 3 times during cooking.

When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, halve them lengthwise and scoop the flesh into a fine mesh strainer set over a bowl or in a sink (you should have about 2 cups); discard the skins. With a large spoon, gently fold the eggplant in the strainer to help expel liquid; continue until liquid has nearly stopped dripping from the strainer, about 3 minutes; discard the liquid.

Peasant Caviar (Eggplant Puree)

Makes about 2½ cups

1 recipe grilled or roasted eggplant for puree

1 medium garlic clove, minced

3 tablespoons minced shallot or sweet onion, such as Vidalia

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving (optional)

Salt and pepper

1/3 cup toasted pine nuts or chopped walnuts

1/3 cup golden raisins, optional

¼ cup chopped parsley or mint

For a smooth texture, place the eggplant, garlic, shallot or onion, lemon juice, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste in a food processor, and pulse to the desired texture. Scrape the mixture into a medium bowl. Alternatively, for a coarse texture, finely chop the eggplant and place it in a medium bowl. Add the garlic, shallot or onion, lemon juice, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste, and stir to mix. Fold in the nuts, raisins, if using, and parsley or mint. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Drizzle with olive oil, if desired, and serve.

Greek-Style Eggplant Puree with Yogurt

Makes about 3 cups

1 recipe grilled or roasted eggplant for puree

2 medium garlic cloves, minced

Pinch cayenne pepper, optional

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving (optional)

Salt and black pepper

¾ cup plain Greek-style yogurt, preferably whole milk

¼ cup chopped parsley or mint

For a smooth texture, place the eggplant, garlic, cayenne, if using, lemon juice, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and black pepper to taste in a food processor, and pulse to the desired texture. Scrape the mixture into a medium bowl. Alternatively, for a coarse texture, finely chop the eggplant and place it in a medium bowl. Add the garlic, cayenne, if using, lemon juice, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and black pepper to taste, and stir to mix. Fold in the yogurt and parsley or mint. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and black pepper, if necessary. Drizzle with olive oil, if desired, and serve.

Italian-Style Eggplant Puree with Tomatoes and Basil

Makes about 2½ cups

1 recipe grilled or roasted eggplant for puree

2 medium garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving (optional)

Salt and pepper

2 medium Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded and finely chopped (about 1 cup)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

For a smooth texture, place the eggplant, garlic, vinegar, ¼ cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste in a food processor, and pulse to the desired texture. Scrape the mixture into a medium bowl. Alternatively, for a coarse texture, finely chop the eggplant and place it in a medium bowl. Add the garlic, vinegar, ¼ cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste, and stir to mix. Fold in the tomatoes and basil. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Drizzle with olive oil, if desired, and serve.

Send comments or suggestions to Adam Ried at cooking@globe.com.