(Photograph by Joel Benjamin)
Better beer
Go beyond Bud with a six-pack of New England craft brews.
(Photograph by Joel Benjamin)
The business of artisan-made small-batch beer, known as craft beer, is booming. There are close to 1,500 craft breweries in the country, with 108 in New England that meet the National Brewers Association’s definition: independent owners producing less than 2 million barrels annually. Even in a recession (perhaps because of it?) sales are growing, according to association numbers. At Downtown Wine and Spirits in Somerville’s Davis Square, manager Dan Parsons says that the popularity of hand-crafted brews has two things driving it. “It’s not just demand from customers,” he says, “it’s an increase in people brewing the beer.”
This region has a history with craft breweries, says Paul Gatza, director of the National Brewers Association. In the 1980s, breweries like Samuel Adams and Geary’s paved the way. There’s also an element of regional independent spirit, he says. In other parts of the country, breweries are clustered around urban centers, but here they’re tucked in out-of-the-way places. “People aren’t afraid of making their barns into breweries,” Gatza says.
You could spend weeks sampling every beer made in New England, from Vermont’s Magic Hat Circus Boy to Rhode Island’s Newport Storm Hurricane Amber Ale. Here’s a six-pack to get you started: unique local brews that are delicious right now.
Courtney Hollands, a senior producer at boston.com, served craft beer at her wedding this weekend. Send comments to magazine@globe.com.
A note on bar and shop picks: Taps rotate and stocks run out, so call ahead if you’re looking for something specific.
Grey Lady Ale (brewed since 2008)
BREWER:
TASTE: Like other traditional witbiers, this brew -- named for the foggy island where it’s made, and not The New York Times -- is spiced. Lemon, orange, and grapefruit zest go into the brew kettle along with chamomile. It is refreshing and smells sweet, like bananas. Drink it from a tulip glass.
ON TAP: Matt Murphy’s Pub, Brookline; Cisco Brew Pub of Nantucket, Logan Airport; Deep Ellum, Allston
IN BOTTLES: about $7.50 for a 22-ounce bottle at Julio’s Liquors, Westborough; Charles Street Liquors, Boston; Downtown Wine and Spirits, Somerville
Headwall Alt (brewed since 2004)
BREWER: Tuckerman Brewing Company, Conway, New Hampshire
TASTE: This German-style brown ale tastes of toasted grains and vanilla and smells smoky and a little like cinnamon. It’s dark but not too heavy. Tuckerman Brewing Company started 11 years ago with a pale ale. Kirsten Neves and her husband, Nik Stanicu, decided to brew something darker and different -- but lighter than a porter.
ON TAP: Flatbread Company, Bedford; Wild Horse Cafe, Beverly; Off the Vine, Rowley
IN BOTTLES: about $10 for a six-pack at Yankee Spirits, Sturbridge; Colonial Spirits, Acton; Upper Falls Discount Liquors, Newton
Mayflower IPA (brewed since 2008)
BREWER: Mayflower Brewing Company, Plymouth
TASTE: This India Pale Ale is not as edgy as other local IPAs, thanks to the malt. It smells sweet and a bit piney and has a grapefruit flavor. Fun fact: Brewery founder Drew Brosseau is the 10th great-grandson of Pilgrim and beer-barrel cooper John Alden, who came here on the Mayflower.
ON TAP: Cabby Shack, Plymouth; Redbones, Somerville; British Beer Company, several locations
IN BOTTLES: about $10 for a six-pack at Bradford’s Package Store, Plymouth; Liquor World, Cambridge; Julio’s Liquors, Westborough
Jack D’Or (brewed since 2008)
BREWER: Pretty Things Beer and Ale Project, Cambridge (brewed in Westport)
TASTE: The first sip brings citrus, bread, and honey flavors; then it gets slightly bitter. Brewers Dann and Martha Paquette wanted to put their own spin on “saison”-style beers in Belgium and France. If you detect pepper or coriander, it comes from the four different strains of yeast -- this beer isn’t brewed with any spices. Try it in an oversize wine glass.
ON TAP: Deep Ellum, Allston; Green Street Grill, Cambridge; VeeVee, Jamaica Plain
IN BOTTLES: about $6 for a 22-ounce bottle at Whole Foods, River Street, Cambridge; Julio’s Liquors, Westborough
Peak Organic Nut Brown Ale (brewed since 1997)
BREWER: Peak Organic Beer, Portland, Maine
TASTE: The mellow, smooth English-style brown ale smells and tastes like toasted nuts with a touch of chocolate. Brewer Jon Cadoux came up with the recipe because he wanted a brown ale “with a different, crisp finish.” Peak has also started brewing the ale with organic Maine hops, he says. Drink it from a pint or a tulip glass.
ON TAP: Asgard, Cambridge; Liberty Hotel, Boston; Seaport Hotel, Boston
IN BOTTLES: about $8.50 for a six-pack at Whole Foods, River Street, Cambridge; Downtown Wine and Spirits, Somerville; Wine Gallery, Boston and Brookline
Allagash Tripel (brewed since 1999)
BREWER: Allagash Brewing Company, Portland, Maine
TASTE: The big character of this award-winning Belgian Tripel-style beer comes in part from the yeast strain. “It’s a strong beer, but really palatable,” brewer Jason Perkins says. There’s an herbal, orangey flavor and smell. This dangerously smooth sipper hides its high alcohol content well. Drink it from a beer chalice.
ON TAP: The Publick House, Brookline; Sunset Grill, Allston; The Armsby Abbey, Worcester
IN BOTTLES: about $10 for a 750-milliliter bottle or $12 for a four-pack of 12-ounce bottles at Blanchard’s Liquors, Allston; Publick House Provisions, Brookline; Marty’s Liquors, Newton
Correction: Because of a reporting error, an article on craft beer that appeared in Sunday's Globe Magazine gave the incorrect location of the Mayflower Brewing Co. It is located in Plymouth.
© Copyright 2009 Globe Newspaper Company.
