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Monday, August 28, 2006

Tea for Two (or Three)

WELLESLEY

If you don't have a pied-a -terre in London, you can indulge your inner Anglophile closer to home with afternoon tea, served daily at Dorset Tea & Coffee in Wellesley Hills.

Good suburban tea offerings are scarce. Big-name teas like those served at the Ritz-Carlton and the Four Seasons in downtown Boston feature tiered silver trays of treats and subdued white-gloved attendants -- and require reservations weeks in advance.

But outside the city limits, teatime mostly involves a tea bag and paper cup at a chain coffeehouse, and maybe a plastic-wrapped madeleine cookie.

But the Dorset, which local sisters Sally and Sue Khudairi opened in May along busy Washington Street, puts on a tea that manages to be competent in all the right places, yet not fastidiously uptight.

Read the entire Sunday GlobeWest review here

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