A coffee master's ground rules for flavor

John Barry tastes coffee the way some people taste wine. He smells it, considers its body and acidity, and he can even recommend foods to pair it with. He can often tell in one sip whether a coffee has Latin American or Indonesian origins.

Barry, who is based in Newton, is a district manager and regional coffee and tea specialist for the java giant Starbucks Corp. He has been certified by the company as a ''coffee master," a process that typically takes 1-3 months, and he offers regular tasting seminars for staff and the public.

New England coffee drinkers, whom Barry describes as having a ''mild palate" tend to prefer Starbucks' Breakfast Blend -- probably of little surprise given the popularity of Canton's Dunkin' Donuts and its mild morning brew.

But customers who want to venture beyond should consider such characteristics as body, which is the weight of the beverage on your tongue. Breakfast Blend, for instance, is light-bodied. Coffees from Indonesia are more full-bodied.

Remember that adding milk is essentially adding body, Barry says. That may help you identify where your tastes lie, and could steer you to a more full-bodied variety, or something different.

''If you really like a lot of cream, then I would tell you to try a latte," he says.

Acidity, the coffee's ''liveliness," also contributes to flavor. Latin American and African coffees tend to have more acidity, which usually registers on the sides of your tongue. African coffees tend to have wine or berry undertones that make good iced beverages.

Roasting helps bring out a coffee's flavor. Darker roasts, such as French, Italian, and espresso, are more smoky and intense.

Based on your preferences, shops will help you choose a coffee to take home. You should only buy as much as you can consume during a week, Barry says -- maybe a quarter- or half-pound -- and store it in an airtight container away from heat.

''Freshness is one of the four fundamentals" of brewing coffee, he says. The other three are proportion -- for every six ounces of water you generally need two tablespoons of ground coffee -- fresh water, and proper grind.

According to the Specialty Coffee Association of America, a Long Beach, Calif., trade group that tracks the gourmet coffee industry, specialty coffees were almost a $9 billion industry in the United States in 2003, up from $7.5 billion in 1999. Last year, 16 percent of the adult population drank specialty coffee every day, up from 9 percent in 2000.

Barry, who has worked for Starbucks for seven years, estimates he drinks about five cups of coffee a day. He prefers an Americano, a drink made by combining brewed espresso with hot water.

Barry is impressed by the vast selection of coffee in Seattle, where the first Starbucks opened in 1971. He seeks out Starbucks when he travels, but also is eager to sample coffee from local shops.

''I love to taste coffee from anywhere," he says. ''I have the world's best job. I hang out in coffee shops and talk to people about coffee."

Emily Shartin can be reached at eshartin@globe.com.