Shreve, Crump & Low: It's not your mother's jewelry store any more

Shreve, Crump & Low, Boston's grande dame of jewelers, may be only moving one block, but the relocation marks the biggest shift in the company's 136 years.

When shoppers walk into the new flagship store, which is set to open tomorrow at 440 Boylston St. in the former FAO Schwarz building in Boston, they will see a dramatically different layout. The first floor will feature the work of a dozen designers, from jeweler-to-the-stars Kieselstein-Cord to Vera Wang, representing some of the newest and most exclusive lines in jewelry. The styles are more contemporary -- fewer conservative pearls, more semiprecious stones like pink tourmaline -- with prices starting at $75.

''Right now, people think they either can't afford to shop here, aren't interested in shopping here, or that we charge too much. If I can present customers with a line of merchandise with a right price and the right theme, then we will be successful," said Stephen Elkin, chief executive of privately held Shreve's. ''We want to take care of our existing customers and introduce to the mix their children and grandchildren, or people walking down Boylston Street."

Consumer trends are forcing Shreve's and other jewelers to rethink the way they do business. Men used to be their chief customers, buying diamonds for special occasions like engagements and anniversaries. Today more women are buying jewelry for themselves. And they prefer ''everyday" stones like turquoise and amethyst.

''Women today are their own boss with her own checkbook," said Ann Birks, who co-owns Shreve's with her daughter Kim. ''It's a lot about self-purchasing now, instead of waiting for someone to buy jewelry."

And what women want is jewelry that will make a statement.

''Customers have diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. They are looking for more fun and exciting pieces, so many stores are taking note and accommodating their shoppers," said Nancy Trent, a spokeswoman for the International Jewelry Design Guild, a New York group that represents designers.

Other jewelry retailers have already made that shift. Tiffany & Co. has broadened its market with its ''Tiffany 1837" line -- classic gold and silver jewelry -- that is popular among younger buyers, says Julie Fox, Boston spokeswoman for Tiffany's. Over the past few years Ross-Simons, a Cranston, R.I., chain, has put more semiprecious stones and more modern jewelry into its collections.

''People are abandoning the traditional gold herringbone necklace and buying a lot of colors and big pieces," said Darrell Ross, chief executive of Ross-Simons, which has 15 stores nationwide. ''People are feeling permission to be freer in how they wear jewelry."

The changing tastes also mean jewelers like Shreve's must adjust their price points. Traditional pieces such as precious gems and fine pearls are far more expensive than semiprecious stones. For example, a one-carat solitaire diamond ring set in a platinum band can start at a few thousand dollars and rise to more than a million, but semiprecious stones range from several hundred dollars to a few thousand. Designer lines can be more expensive but still more modest than diamonds. Temple St. Clair, a couture line that is new to Shreve's, ranges in price from $70 to $10,800.

Still, consumers today are spending on average hundreds of dollars more on jewelry compared with a decade ago because they are buying more often, says Maria Christin Canale, a New York jewelry design consultant for Tiffany & Co., Mikimoto, and Vera Wang.

When Shreve's opened its original store at the corner of Washington and Summer streets in Boston's Downtown Crossing in 1891, ''fashion jewelry" had not even been considered. The most popular piece of jewelry at the time was a watch.

The decision to bring in new designers and give Shreve's a makeover came after months of focus groups with current and former customers, as well as people who have never shopped there.

Elkin browsed displays at Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Barney's New York, and Bloomingdale's in New York City, and brought in designers that would provide exclusive lines.

These designers include Gucci and Vera Wang, brands that recently started jewelry lines, and celebrity designers like Kieselstein-Cord and Temple St. Clair. The Kieselstein-Cord line, which caters to high-end clientele including media mogul Oprah Winfrey, rap stars Nelly and 50 Cent, and Hollywood director Steven Spielberg, ranges in price from $2,000 to $20,000.

The hope is that the new designers will help Shreve's shed its old image.

''Today's 20-year-olds are spending their disposable income on accessories, and we want them to use jewelry," said Ann Birks. ''We'd like to let the consumer know about more cutting-edge lines. It's a young mentality, and we are shaking up what might be perceived as a classic jeweler."

Shreve's will continue to sell its signature brands, but they'll be housed on the second floor of its 22,000-square foot space: Mikimoto pearls, fine china, and porcelain Gurgling Cods that have become a classic New England housewarming gift.

To ensure that Shreve's appeals to several generations of shoppers, a window display and in-store stage mixes diamonds with tributes to legendary rock bands of Boston, including Aerosmith.

Even some of Shreve's classic lines will offer more modern twists. ''It's important to tailor the product to today's modern customer," said Aaron Reed, president of Mikimoto.

''It's important to keep the focus on the brand, and let the design speak for itself."

Barry Kieselstein-Cord, president of Kieselstein-Cord jewelry in New York, says expanding his line to Boston reflects a growing market for sophisticated pieces that aren't just precious stones.

''Today, people are wearing fine jewelry on a day-to-day basis," he said. ''It's not just for the wealthy anymore."

Melanie Nayer can be reached at mnayer@globe.com.