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The best flatware combines form, function

Peter McClanahan of China Fair in Newton straightens out a display. The retail outlet sells a wide variety of flatware. Peter McClanahan of China Fair in Newton straightens out a display. The retail outlet sells a wide variety of flatware. (Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff)
Email|Print| Text size + By Cindy Atoji
Globe Correspondent / December 9, 2007

As a caterer, Emma Roberts loves anything to do with tabletops. She collects salt and pepper shakers, fine china, votive candle holders, and candlesticks.

Her favorite item is a 24-piece heirloom silver set from a family estate in Philadelphia. The silverware is an elegant pattern with monogram; she keeps it from tarnishing by storing it in silk bags, only pulling it out for special occasions such as Thanksgiving, Christmas, and holiday dinner parties.

"Silver will outlast you, endure for hundreds of years, and go to your children's children," says Roberts, owner of Capers Catering in Stoneham.

Robert's silverware harks back to an era when homemakers kept their best genuine silver utensils in a cherry box, only to be taken out and polished once or twice a year and set on the dining room table with the best linens, crystal, and china. "Those days are long gone," says Paul Gebhardt of Oneida, one of the largest makers of silverware.

The flatware in department and specialty stores today - a $200 million marketplace - isn't your grandmother's silverware, which tended to feature needlepoint-style patterns or early Victorian motifs.

Instead, modern silverware designers like Gebhardt travel the world with an eye on making the table a decorative statement.

"We look at trends in the auto industry, fashion, even the 'green environment' rage, taking the global pulse, then designing to fit these scenarios," he says.

Natural, organic pieces are currently popular, as well as other elements from art and architecture. Gebhardt says one of the most well-received patterns from a recent tabletop show was derived from a design that originated in the food service industry. Called Aero, the flatware set has a Bauhaus style with detailed tailoring, a clean surface finish, and straightforward shaping.

Oneida, like many other major manufacturers, introduces 50 to 60 new silverware designs annually, with some of those being proprietary for select companies or restaurants.

High-quality stainless steel isn't cheap, with place settings costing between $30 and $50. Place settings typically include five pieces:, a dinner and salad fork, knife, teaspoon, and tablespoon. Whether a fork or a knife, the utensil should feel comfortable in your hand and have substantial weight instead of feeling flimsy and pliable.

"Funky handles might look cool, but they're often not functional," says Simone Williamson, owner of Be Our Guest, a Boston linens-and-party-equipment-rental company that recently acquired 10,000 elegant, highly polished stainless steel forks made by VST flatware for the Nordstrom Natick Opening Gala.

And of course, your flatware should be able to stand up to the wear and tear of daily use, including the dishwasher. At the Taj Boston, food and beverage manager Claude Dubois says all knives, forks, and spoons are checked on a regular basis to ensure they're polished, shining, and presentable, with no bent pieces or tarnish.

"Flatware is an accent piece that ties together the various elements on the table, from the charger to the tablecloth," says Williamson.

The details

n Choose a pattern that matches your lifestyle and personality and coordinates with your china and other tabletop décor.

n Consider whether the silverware will look dated after a few years. The flatware you select should be suitable for everyday use as well as dinner parties.

n Consider the material to see what percentage of nickel and chrome are found in the stainless steel. The higher the nickel percentage, the better the quality. Nickel makes steel acid-resistant and gives the flatware a pretty, warm shine.

n Look for patterns that include additional service pieces, such as serving forks and spoons, sugar spoons, a meat fork, a gravy ladle, and butter knives.

n Always pick up the flatware before purchasing. It should feel balanced and comfortable. Edges should be smooth, and the weight should be neither too heavy nor too light. For knives, test to make sure the blade fits tightly into the handle and doesn't wiggle.

n Research the workmanship and quality of the brand. The surface area should last and not wear out or scratch with use.

SOURCES: Oneida, Capers Catering, Be Our Guest

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