When luxury calls, cashmere answers

The word ''cashmere" evokes thoughts of luxury, warmth, and indulgence. But cashmere can also be synonymous with high price.

How high? Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli, the self-proclaimed ''King of Cashmere," says a consumer who wants a quality cashmere sweater that will last a lifetime should be prepared to spend $800 to $1,000.

Cucinelli says not to think of cashmere as just another piece of clothing.

''A cashmere sweater should be treated like a fine piece of jewelry that you never throw away over time," he said.

Cucinelli's signature cashmere collection -- available at Saks Fifth Avenue and boutiques nationwide -- comes in different colors and styles, including jackets, pants, sweaters, and scarves.

Prices range from $355 for a sweater vest to $1,025 for a cream-colored long-sleeve V-neck sweater .

Cashmere, ultrafine wool from the undercoat of the Cashmere (or Kashmir) goat, is a premium fiber -- one that generally commands a much higher price than sheep's wool. The goats used for cashmere sweaters are bred in the Himalayas, and it usually takes them around four years to grow the cashmere fibers. That's a longer time compared to other goats or sheep.

The uniqueness of the wool is why Cucinelli chose to focus on cashmere.

''It is extremely specialized," he said.

Cashmere comes in two tiers -- one-ply and two-ply -- depending on weight. A two-ply cashmere sweater is still lightweight but sturdier than a one-ply sweater, and probably the better buy, said Jay Brasili, store manager of Sonia Rykiel on Boylston Street.

''There are designers that are going to add on ply, but that doesn't mean it's going to add quality to the sweater," said Brasili.

Brasili said the most important thing about cashmere is its texture. While some sweaters made with 100 percent cashmere fibers are soft and velvety, others may have additional fabrics including wool or cotton, or have beads or crystals sewn into the sweater that may alter the look and feel.

Pure white cashmere does not accept color well, and Brasili said the cashmere could feel a little coarse.

''The paler the color, the better the quality, for the most part," said Brasili. ''If it's soft to the touch, you know it's exceptional quality."

These days you can find cashmere sweaters for under $100, but read the labels carefully.

Many imported-fabric suppliers and garment manufacturers misrepresent the amount of cashmere contained in a garment in order to trade on the image of luxury fibers, according to the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute in Boston.

Also, the country of origin of the garment must be stated, and if a garment contains only a small amount of cashmere, it is illegal to feature the word ''cashmere" on the label, according to the Wool Products Labeling Act.

Brasili said consumers are better off buying a higher-priced cashmere sweater because cheaper ones will last only a few years. These lower-priced cashmere sweaters are not knitted and do not have the same quality of yarn as ones that cost upward of $500.

''This difference is the quality," said Brasili. ''The sweater will pill and stretch over time."

Melanie Nayer can be reached at mnayer@boston.com.