Great steaks have common thread -- fat
Flashy filet mignon may command the most attention and the highest prices. But it is also a lean cut of beef, says Tindaro LoSurdo, executive chef at Boston's outpost of the national steakhouse chain Smith & Wollensky.
And without those white threads of fat known as marbling, your steak may be lacking in more ways than one.
Fat gives steak flavor, says LoSurdo, who was born in Italy and grew up in Billerica.
Independence Day is the most popular holiday for grilling, according to the Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association, and steaks are second in popularity only to burgers.
Marbling is the first thing to consider when buying steaks for home, LoSurdo says. While filet is the most popular cut at his restaurant, he prefers the rib eye, sometimes known as Delmonico -- a fattier cut that comes from the lower part of a cow or steer's back.
If you're trying not to overdo it, both sirloin and T-bone -- a cut of both filet and sirloin -- are good options that have less fat than rib eyes, LoSurdo says. (Smith & Wollensky, which serves beef that comes from corn-fed cows and steers, offers a mammoth 55-ounce T-bone.)
All of these steaks come from the back, which LoSurdo refers to as ``the jewel of the cow." Because it is rarely exercised, the meat is more tender.
Muscle makes the meat tougher, so if you choose meat from the shoulder, such as blade steak, LoSurdo recommends marinating it in acids like soy sauce or lemon juice that break down the muscle and tenderize the meat.
The National Cattlemen's Beef Association estimates that nearly nine out of 10 Americans -- 263 million -- will eat beef at home during the next two weeks. In 2005, Americans spent $241 apiece on beef, up $42 since 2001.
LoSurdo notes that per-pound prices for steaks can range from a few dollars to upwards of $20. He advises choosing ``the best thing you can afford."
He likes the selection at Whole Foods supermarkets, and also suggests getting expert advice by shopping at a butcher, such as Butcher Boy in North Andover or Savenor's on Beacon Hill.
His personal steak preference is a ``center cut" from the middle of the loin, an inch thick or better. Go for a bone-in steak if possible because it will have more flavor.
``It just tastes better off the bone," LoSurdo says.
As for ground beef, LoSurdo says the cut doesn't matter as much as the fat content. He stays away from ground beef that is 90 percent lean, opting instead for something with more fat, which gives the meat more texture and keeps it from becoming too dry. A lot of the fat will be drawn out in the cooking process, he says.
Though he will be working on July 4, LoSurdo often finds himself cooking on an outdoor grill at this time of year. He calls it a good opportunity to try different cuts and figure out the best way to cook them.
``You should just have fun with it and experiment," he says.
Emily Shartin can be reached at eshartin@globe.com. 
