Jean MacLeod, who was shopping at a Walmart on the south side of Indianapolis, is willing to pay more for goods if they are made in an ethically responsible manner and does it all the time when she buys food.
Walmart wants the best prices for its customers, she said, but the company also has power as a buyer to make sure factories have decent working conditions.
‘‘They should be able to say, ‘Look it, we don’t want to buy from you unless you do things a little more our way,'’’ MacLeod said. ‘‘If they don’t want to buy from them, then that means that factory will go out of business.’’
Arguments have been made that producing items with cheap labor isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
Factories in the Third World can provide jobs with wages well above a region’s average. They can help lift families out of severe poverty. The catch is that there are fewer safeguards to protect workers from being exploited from unscrupulous employers.
At the Bangladesh factory, locked exits prevented many workers from escaping after fire broke out.
It draws eerie parallels to New York’s Triangle Shirtwaist Fire of 1911, where 146 people died within 18 minutes of a fire starting in a factory with locked exits.
That fire was the catalyst for widespread changes in labor laws in U.S. But in the 100 years since, the desire for cheap clothing hasn’t abated and costly labor has just shifted to factories overseas.
‘‘To put it maybe too frankly, profit and efficiency and competition always trump safety and health,’’ said James A. Gross, a labor relations professor at Cornell University.
Not every company sees things that way.
Los Angeles-based American Apparel promotes itself as a line of ‘‘sweatshop free’’ clothing. Its founder and CEO, Dov Charney, said that companies can control working conditions — they just need to bring production closer to home. American Apparel knits, dyes, cuts and sews all of its products in-house.
‘‘When the company knows the face of its worker, that’s important,’’ Charney said. ‘‘You can control working conditions and quality.’’
Yes, American Apparel spends more on labor, but it isn’t as much as you would expect. Charney estimates that an imported T-shirt selling for $6 at Walmart would cost about $6.30 if produced domestically thanks to the company’s massive scale.
‘‘The consumer can care. They can buy from companies that are committed to fair trade and try to seek out those companies,’’ he said.
In the mid-1990s, the sneaker giant came under pressure to change its ways after numerous reports of child labor, low wages and poor working conditions. Eventually wages climbed, minimum age requirements were put in place and Nike increased monitoring at its factories.
But such change only comes after persistent public pressure.
‘‘Clothes makers will always do what they want, but the buyer should educate himself,’’ said Paris shopper Pierre Lefebvre.
Not all buyers have that luxury. Family budgets are tight.
‘‘Especially with this economy, we like our money to go as far as it can,’’ said Lesley Schuldt, who left a Cincinnati Macy’s this week with five shopping bags worth of jewelry, cookware and gifts. ‘‘I have no idea where half the stuff I bought was made, but I imagine it was not in the U.S.’’
Associated Press reporters Amanda Lee Myers in Cincinnati, Josh Freed in Bloomington, Minn., Tom Murphy in Indianapolis, Meghan Barr in New York, Heather Tan in Singapore and Thomas Adamson in Paris contributed to this report.
Scott Mayerowitz can be reached at http://twitter.com/GlobeTrotScott.