April 26, 2007
Q. My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport with 34,000 miles has had too many problems to mention. But most recently the check engine light has been on. The mechanic checked the code and said it referred to an emission code and he suggested changing the gas cap. This did not work. After enduring far too many repairs to this vehicle since purchasing it, is there any lemon law which might apply for us? We are afraid to drive this vehicle and tired of repairing it. What can we do?
A. The first thing I would suggest is finding a new repair shop. Diagnosing a vague emissions problem and suggesting a gas cap replacement is a sign of a parts changer and not a qualified technician. In many cases your Dodge may still be under all or part of the manufacture’s warranty which also includes the federal emission warranty. In some cases components may be covered for up to eight years or 80,000 miles.
Q. I have a 1998 Audi A6 and since last week I have had the ABS light on and the brake light blinking on for few minutes. They come on and off together and sometimes they do not come on at all. What is going on?
A. The red brake light (a critical warning) indicates a problem with the hydraulic part of the brake system. The yellow ABS light indicates a failure with the anti-lock brake system. When both come on together the very first item to check is the brake fluid level.
Q. I have been experiencing a persisting howling noise problem with my 2001 Chrysler 300m. The noise sounded noticeably worse during start up after a cold night. The noise would go away after 10-15 minutes of running or when the engine is completely warmed up. Since last year I have had a pulley replaced, the power steering pump and now the steering gear. The noise is still present and now the steering wheel is making a noise. Although these repairs are under extended warranty, it still cost me $50 every single time along with a day out of work. My question is what would be the source of this howling noise? Could the clicking noise result from the steering system part replacement? I am at a lost and have zero confidence in the dealer, what should I do?
A. I can understand how you have lost confidence in the dealer and the work they performed. The clicking noise could be a result of the replacement of the rack and pinion steering gear. My concern is that this noise may have been a result of a clogged power steering reservoir and the other repairs may have not been necessary. There is a screen in the reservoir clogs and causes the fluid to aerate causing the howling noise. This should be checked before any other repairs are performed.
Q. I was watching The Fast and The Furious the other day and I saw the size of an engine in a muscle car. Can these huge engines in muscle cars be used in a van? Why do people stick large engines in small cars and not put them in vans and trucks?
A. Over the years people have put modified V-8 engines in vans and trucks. The end result can be a true hot rod. Even front wheel drive minivans have not been left out. Several companies sell supercharger kits that can significantly increase the horsepower of the factory engine.
Q. My 2001 Jeep Cherokee check engine light was on. The diagnosis is a misfire on cylinder 3. I was just informed from the Jeep dealer that it wasn't a spark plug or wire but excessive carbon build up. They priced the job at $1,100. I'm just not sure if there's something else I can do before spending this much money to get this fixed.
A. If it is carbon build up serious enough to cause an engine miss-fire there may not be much you can do except disassemble the engine and clean the valves. Although before this was done I would want to try de-carbonizing the engine. Several manufacturers make these systems; the one I’m most familiar with is made by Snap-on tools called MotoVac. This service can be accomplished without engine disassembly and generally costs about $100.00
Q. My Chrysler LHS starts fine cold after it sits all night. If I run it and then turn it off and start it with in say 30 seconds it cranks right up. If it sits for a bit then I try to start it, the engine cranks over and over. When it finally starts, it runs a little rough and then smoothes out. Do you think it’s the fuel regulator that is on the fuel pump in the gas tank or the injectors or something else?
A. It could be the regulator, but it could be one of the fuel injectors dripping. Here is a cheap way to test the injectors. To test the injectors, install a fuel pressure gauge and bleed all air out of gauge. After pressurizing the fuel system clamp off the supply line and let car sit. If after an hour the gauge pressure drops suspect leaking fuel injectors.
