June 7, 2007
Q. I have a new Toyota Tacoma. When it first starts it revs up to 1800 rpm, stays there for 30 seconds, goes to 1500 rpm for another 15 seconds. The thing is practically un-drivable and probably can't be sold in this condition. Toyota says "they all do it". Is this a well known problem?
A. I have driven several models of the Toyota Tacoma and don’t remember the high idle issue you are experiencing with your vehicle. Inconsistent idle can be caused by any number of reasons. The technician should take a look at the air intake system, air conditioning signal, electronic control module and possible vacuum leaks.
Q I had a diagnostic test done on my 1999 BMW 528I and a 153 code came up pertaining to the transmission (when accelerating I feel a little jerking sensation). I was told not to worry about it. The shop who scanned the car said I shouldn’t be concerned. There is approx. 118,000 miles on my car and I plan to keep it for awhile if it doesn't have any major problems.
A. Transmission diagnostic trouble codes can only be extracted diagnosed and cleared by BMW specific equipment. It is my understanding the BMW doesn’t release this diagnostic information to anyone other than a BMW dealer. In this case it would be wise to return to a BMW dealer to get a complete check-up.
Q. My boyfriend owns a 1993 Mazda MX6. The car is always having one thing or another wrong with it. One day it smelled terribly of a rotten egg smell. Well at first I thought nothing of it figuring it was the catalytic converter. Well then we saw smoke under the hood and realized it was the battery causing the trouble. We replaced it and for about 20 miles it was fine. Then bam, the smell was back, not as strong, but just as nasty. We went back to the garage and they did an alternator test and said the alternator is fine. They replaced the battery again, and cleaned off the battery acid on the connections. Well guess what? The battery went again. I was just wondering if you have any idea why the battery would keep dying.
A. The problem is the alternator is over charging. You car uses an alternator with a built in voltage regulator. The problem could be faulty alternator, voltage regulator or wiring issue. Some time spent with a volt-meter and a wiring diagram should allow you to find the problem.
Q. I have a 1991 Camry that the power steering is very stiff. It came on within the past couple of months. It seems to be worse when the weather cools down below 45 degrees and since the warmer weather has been much better. The other issue is the steering wheel does not return when I turn a corner. Does the car need a new steering system?
A. The steering wheel not returning may be the clue. It is possible that one of the strut bearings has started to seize up and that is what is causing the hard steering and poor wheel return. With the car’s front wheels off the ground it should be easy enough to check for a binding strut bearing.
Q. I have a 1996 Lincoln Continental and the airbag suspension is not working, the car has dropped all the way down. I have driven it for about 50 miles and the car seems to run fine even though it sits almost on the ground. I have noticed it’s a little bumpy but my kid seems to like it. I have two questions, can I get an inspection sticker this way? I have been told the repair is very expensive is there a cheaper alternative to getting it fixed?
A. In most states you won’t be able to get the car inspected if any part of the suspension system has failed or broken. At this point have the system checked thoroughly. The problem may be related to the compressor or vehicle wiring problem. If the air bags themselves have failed there are several aftermarket companies that offer replacement kits to convert the air suspension to a conventional shock and spring system.
