July 12, 2007
Q. All of a sudden, I have a problem gassing up my 2001 Toyota Corolla. When I try to put gas in tank, the pump keeps clicking off. I struggle to get $10 in at a time. What is the problem?
A. There is a vent tube that is part of the evaporative emissions system. From time to time, this vent can get blocked and cause slow filling. The common cause can be a gradual buildup of debris, most commonly spider nests.
Q. I have a 1999 Ford Taurus sedan. I recently had the spark plugs and gas filter replaced. My car hesitates/pauses before it starts. The more I start it, the longer the pause became. Then the car did not want to start at all. After a few minutes, the car started fine. The battery and alternator are fine. Could it be the starter?
A. The problem could be the starter. Over time, some starter motors develop a “dead” spot that can cause this symptom. Here’s a simple test to verify that the starter needs replacement. Next time this happens, tap on the starter case. If the car starts, replace the starter. If this doesn’t cause the car to start, check all the wiring from the battery to the starter.
Q. I own a 1996 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer 4.3L 4WD. The voltage gauge drops down between the quarter line and center line only when the vehicle is in “drive.” In all other gears, the voltage gauge stays right in the center position. My cousin owns an alternator and starter company, and we tried everything. All tests showed everything is charging fine; the alternator is new, the battery holding is charged, the belt is not slipping, the belt tension is good, the vehicle runs fine and doesn't stall. Only when I stop and idle in “drive” does the gauge indicator fall just above the quarter line. Then when I accelerate, the indicator returns to the proper center position. Any other things I could look for?
A. This may, in fact, be a normal condition depending on the electrical load of the vehicle. Aftermarket sound systems, high-powered amplifiers, and even DVD and navigation systems can create a significant electrical demand. With a vehicle idling at 600-700 RPM, the output of the alternator can be as low as 35 percent of the full-rated output. When the vehicle speed is above 15 mph, the engine/generator RPM is high enough and the generator current output is sufficient to supply the current requirements of the vehicle as originally equipped and recharge the battery.
Q. My '03 Hyundai Tiburon is at 58,000 miles and just completed a 60,000 timing belt and serpentine belt change and all that comes with it. Not even a month later, I started my car in the morning and it was stuttering (I let warm up for five minutes) and continued after I pulled off. When I was leaving work for lunch, the “check engine” light came on. What do you suggest is happening, and what comes with the purchase of a timing belt package?
A. The “check engine” light indicates some sort of problem with one of the computer sensors. It is possible that when the timing belt service was performed, the technician disconnected one of the electrical harnesses and never properly reassembled it. At this point, bring the car back to the shop that serviced the timing belt and have them scan the car’s computer. Once the technician has the code, it should be fairly simple to determine if the cause of the “check engine” light is related to the timing belt repair.
Q The “check engine” light came on in my 1999 Volvo V70, which has 116,000 miles. I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it as a bad catalytic converter, repair estimate $1,275. Other than the light, the car is running fine. How reliable are the diagnostic tests? Could it be something as simple as a vacuum leak? How soon do I need to repair the car?
A. A faulty catalytic converter may not change the overall drivability of your car, but it will allow excess pollution into the air. The tests for a faulty catalytic converter are fairly conclusive. You may be able to save some money by purchasing an aftermarket direct-fit catalytic converter and having an independent shop install it.
